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Concrete Driveway


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Good Afternoon,

hope your day goes well!

What is an estimate for a basic, simple, straight concrete driveway for a residential home in Houston, Texas.

The driveway right now is made of dirt and is about 100 feet long and about 10 feet wide.

Am I going to need a permit ? Also how difficult to obtain a permit ?

Thank You

"make it a great day"

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Lately, concrete driveway prices have been running at or near $7 per square foot. If concrete prices haved dropped in the last 8 months, it might be a bit cheaper. A permit is fairly simple, if time consuming. A contractor will usually get it for you. If he will not, you ought to get another contractor, as the City of Houston is very protective of their easements.

You will have to replace the concrete pipe under your current driveway with a new 24 inch diameter pipe. This can run an additional $1500 for removal of the old pipe and installation of the new pipe. A cost effective way around this is to only pave from the sidewalk back onto your property. On the city side of the sidewalk, use pavers. Since the pavers are not set in concrete (they sit on a bed of sand), the city will not consider it new construction, and you can keep your old culvert in place. Pavers have the added benefit of actually looking pretty good, much better than concrete, IMO. The cost to have them installed is $6 or $7 per square foot. I installed mine myself for about $4 per square foot. The only drawback is that I got tennis elbow from the constant lifting of the 6 pound pavers, and 6 months later, it is still bothering me a bit. If you are smarter than I was about moving the pavers around, it should not be a problem.

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Wonderful insight !

What exactly are pavers ? As opposed to a solid concrete driveway ?

Also will I need an architect to draw up my plans then sealed by an egnineer then present to the city ?

Will the inspector need to come out to inspect the driveway several times ?

Do you know the cost ?

Thank You

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Pavers or pavestone are fake bricks or fake stone. They look like brick or stone, but are made of concrete. Here are some examples...

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...s&Ntt=paver

You do not need an architect or engineer to draw the plans as long as you include all of the code required elements in your drawing, such as 6 inch rebar reinforced concrete on the city right of way, 24 inch culvert in the ditch, 2 foot radius entry at the street, etc. Your driveway contractor can do all of this. If you choose to install the pavers yourself, I recommend going to the code enforcement office in Midtown and asking to speak with an inspector. They will answer your questions, and usually give you spec sheets of what you need to do. They may act slightly annoyed at having to explain this to an amatuer, but get over it. It is there job, and you need the info.

It sounds like you are trying to decide whether to do a lot of this yourself. If it is concrete, don't. Way too much room for error. Get a contractor, and insist that he get necessary permits. They know what to do. If you decide to do pavers, it can be done by an amatuer much easier than concrete, and you may not need a permit at all.

On a concrete driveway, an inspector comes out after the forms are set, then again when the job is finished. Having a professional install the pavers could be slightly less than concrete to slightly more, depending on the type of paver and the pattern you choose.

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You will have to replace the concrete pipe under your current driveway with a new 24 inch diameter pipe. This can run an additional $1500 for removal of the old pipe and installation of the new pipe.

REd get a permit for the culvert and the city will come out and replace it no charge. at least that's how i got mine done a few yrs ago. on the city easement, the restricitons are usually a little more robust for concrete. stronger rebar, etc.

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Where exactly is the code enforcement office in Midtown ?

Have any input on how difficult it is about having the city add curbs and sidewalk to our street as opposed to

the ditch that floods when it rains ?

corner of main and francis

as for curbs and sidewalks..you have two options.

1) start a petition in the area of interest basically stating that you and your neighbors will be assessed to pay for the improvements. this is the quickest way to get it done.

2) apply for CIP monies via your councilmember. basically the city will pay for the improvments but it takes a lot longer to get on the list cause you have to brown nose your councilmember. cycles are 7 yrs. i will say that there are a lot of neighborhoods looking for this so it may be very difficult to get it done.

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Thanks Again !

For the 1st choice on the curbs and sidewalks . .

Will this work ? If so what are the pros and cons ?

I am assuming very costly ? Do you know how quick the project will be completed with 1st option ?

Does the entire block have to agree ?

yes it will work. it would be best to contact your councilmembers office (adrian garcia i think) who will help you figure out the right way to petition.

pros: it will be the quickest way. but public works will have to do the engineering which will take time so it's not something you can do in a few months.

cons: you will be paying for it. i think they do by linear foot. i know my parents had to pay for their water and streets. i don't know the rate but since they live on a corner they had to pay for front and side streets. their frontage is 250' in front and 160' on the side so it wasn't cheap.

you will have to check on whether everyone has to agree. i believe the answer was yes otherwise you'll have to pay for theirs. i just don't htink you'd want to do that. i'm going to a CIP meeting tomorrow for dist e and i will see if anyone there can tell me. i will ask my parents too because i think my mom was responsible for the petition on our street.

BTW if you don't pay, the city will place a lien on your property. so you WILL pay eventually.

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I had no idea pavers were approximately the same cost as concrete. Im surprised more people dont have paverbrick driveways. They look much nicer IMO.

I think the limiting factor is the weight they can carry. if underneath isn't prepared properly, the pavers will sink or become unaligned.

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My neighbors and I have four different driveway styles, all of which look good (and much better than generic "Houston It's Worth It!" concrete):

1. If going the way of concrete, I would look at having the tinted, brick-stamped concrete put in. One neighbor had this done, and it looks unbelievably good, and adds a lot to the house. Essentially, while the concrete (which was tinted reddish brown) was wet, they used these large plates to imprint this fake brick pattern onto the surface. From 5 feet away, it looks like real brick. Obviously it is more expensive, but I think the looks are worth it.

2. Another neighbor had very thin brick pavers placed on top of sunken concrete. The look is very homogenous, and it looks like real brick, but should stand up well.

3. Across the street from me, they used recylced bricks to create a large grid pattern, and filled in between the grids with white slate gravel. Cheap, I like the look, and it helps to drain water. Plus, no digging up concrete when the inevitable sewer line failure happens. I'm actually going with this method in front of my garage (which is currently broken-up old aggregate concrete).

4. My driveway is twin ribbon original brick, laid right on the dirt, apparently in 1926. It looks great, but is a maintenance nightmare, both due to weeds, and difficulty edging. Prized, but not recommended.

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3. Across the street from me, they used recylced bricks to create a large grid pattern, and filled in between the grids with white slate gravel. Cheap, I like the look, and it helps to drain water. Plus, no digging up concrete when the inevitable sewer line failure happens. I'm actually going with this method in front of my garage (which is currently broken-up old aggregate concrete).

just watch out for small gravel/rocks. i've seen some really nice wood floors just ruined by small rocks stuck in shoes.

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Good Afternoon All,

wonderful advise and the code enforcement employees were truly helpful in the Midtown location.

Once my drawings are submitted how long and how many times will the inspector need to review in person

the project ?

i think he inspectors time will be kept to a minimum. i know they will be coming out to review the forms and rebar size but other than that they probably won't need to come back. They usually concentrate on the area in the city's easement

make sure that you consider that when the concrete is poured that water will shed off if it in the right direction. you don't want to flood some area that didn't flood before. now might be a good time to do some underground drainage if you need it

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I appreciate the helpful information !

What exactly do you mean about " water will shed off if it in the right direction " also any recommendations on some underground drainage ?

Get a crew that knows how to pour a driveway. My neighbor, an illegal alien, got a buddy who was a "concrete contractor" who brought along a group of maybe 8 laborers to pour his. The neighbor was there too, barking orders during the pour. The result is a very large lake exactly where his truck is parked whenever it rains. My neighbor was not happy, but what could he do?

Now I suffer the consequences too, having to hear him crank up his leaf blower to blow the water down the driveway after each rain. <_<

And keep in mind that loose gravel and stones in the landscape can "become projectiles" (in my best newsman voice) during a hurricane.

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I appreciate the helpful information !

What exactly do you mean about " water will shed off if it in the right direction " also any recommendations on some underground drainage ?

Danax hit on one point concerning water pooling on the driveway. but you also have to consider water from the driveway causing areas next to it to flood. i know someone who poured a driveway and sidewalk and as a result the water on the grass no longer heads to the street but is trapped like a dam. depending on what you are doing, sometimes the poured concrete can affect your current drainage situation.

as for underground drainage, do you have any areas that currently flood in the yard? if so since you're already doing to have to dig up the dirt where the driveway will be, now might be the time to put in some pipes so that you can help the drainage situation.

since every yard is different it is hard to make specific recommendations but not thinking now may result in a worse situation. just make sure there is a slope so that water can drain properly and in the right direction. if you don't see the concrete people using a level of some sort, beware.

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Wonderful input !

Suggestions, comments, ideas, or experience if my current driveway is all dirt up to my garage which has a slab

of cement almost leveled to the dirt driveway.

My challenge is if I decide to lay a concrete driveway up to the garage slab of cement

then the driveway and garage slab would be uneven and maybe water would enter the garage ???

If I am not mistaken a driveway must be a certain height in depth and width ??

Thank You

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Wonderful input !

Suggestions, comments, ideas, or experience if my current driveway is all dirt up to my garage which has a slab

of cement almost leveled to the dirt driveway.

My challenge is if I decide to lay a concrete driveway up to the garage slab of cement

then the driveway and garage slab would be uneven and maybe water would enter the garage ???

If I am not mistaken a driveway must be a certain height in depth and width ??

Thank You

it's hard to say about your garage situation without seeing it. but i understand your concern i have a friend on euclid in woodland heights that spent thousands on his house but didn't address the drainage situation and it is coming back to haunt him. his garage can easily have several inches of water after a rain and i won't even talk about under the house.

i'd say if the slab was higher than the surrounding ground then you wont have a problem. but if the new drive has a tilt towards the garage, them most likely water will go in. you can easily ensure the driveway is lower than the garage slab but then your driveway may be lower than the yard and water will pool on the driveway. an accompanying drainage system could easily solve your problem as long as you have enough slope to drain the water to the curb/street/ditch.

as for the low garage. i've seen people literally pour another slab on top of the old one and raise the garage up as well. i know a resident of pecan park who did that and it came out just fine. it was just a basic garage formed with open studs so there were no unforseen problems.

i'm not sure about about the code to be honest. the concrete people can (and usually) remove dirt to lower it if you want it a certain thickness without coming out of the ground too much. some of the driveways i've seen in new homes are not wide enough IMO. if you can park two cars side by side, exit and step on concrete, then you're ok. if you step on the grass....then you have a problem. i think the driveway should be wider than the width of the door, not the width of the door.

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There is no code requirement for the driveway thickness on your property...ONLY on the City's easement...which is 6 inches deep. Most contractors recommend 4 inches of concrete for a driveway. I handled drainage by digging the driveway deep enough that water runs down the center of the driveway to the sidewalk and drainage ditch. The surface of the driveway is concave in the center, and an inch or so below the grass. It works well. If that is somehow not a good solution for you, you will need to put drainage on the side, either by digging a trench, or by installing drains and pipe. Using the driveway for drainage is cheaper.

As for width, it should not be less than 10 feet. Mine is 9 feet, because it is all the room I had, and it is functional, but a bit tight. City code requires 12 feet on their ROW.

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Good Afternoon,

Lets say I do install a drainage and still there are some puddles on the side . Will putting some evergreen plants,

bushes , or flowers help with absorbing some of the water ?

as long as you have grass there i'd say that is enough. it will eventually be absorbed.

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Good Afternoon,

Lets say I do install a drainage and still there are some puddles on the side . Will putting some evergreen plants,

bushes , or flowers help with absorbing some of the water ?

Have you considered a swale?

Vegetated swales are often used as an alternative to, or an enhancement of, traditional storm sewer pipes.

More info here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello All,

Does a concrete company when doing the labor and material for a driveway do they request the permit or is it up to the homeowner to take days off to meet the inspector and go to midtown for the permit ?

Will the best option be to install a French drain for the water ?

Thank You

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Hello All,

Does a concrete company when doing the labor and material for a driveway do they request the permit or is it up to the homeowner to take days off to meet the inspector and go to midtown for the permit ?

Will the best option be to install a French drain for the water ?

Thank You

they can get it ........or you can but supposedly you have to be doing the work, not a contractor. the city will charge the concrete company more for the permit which in turn will reflect in a higher price from the concrete company for the job overall.

the driveway itself can shed the water in the right direction if it is installed properly.

any pics of the area?

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  • 2 weeks later...

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