Jump to content

Houston's own food


Recommended Posts

A while back there was a discussion here on HAIF about how Houston should have a food of its own. New York has cheesecake and steaks, Seattle has coffee, Chicago has deep dish pizza, London has fish and chips, Tokyo has sushi, etc... so Houston should have an iconic food item, too.

Maybe everyone knows this already and I'm just too Yankee to be on the bandwagon, but according to what I just saw on the Food Network, Houston made Fajitas mainstream (and Dallas did so with nachos, but that's another story). According to the show, fajitas were invented in the 1940's by Texas cowboys, and that Ninfa's in Houston was the first restaurant to serve them to the public. I always knew Ninfa's was a big deal in Houston because people talked about it all the time, but no one ever explained the history to me; I just thought people liked the food.

Now that I'm enlightened, I am proclaiming Houston The Fajita Capitol Of The World.

If anyone has a picture of fajitas or can take a snap of one with their cameraphone at lunch today, I'll use it to make a HAIF title graphic like the ones for Christmas and Mother's Day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Barbecue for Houston. It's all the rage at every Rodeo event. Every ethnicity makes it and its always great. Ninfa does not deserve the credit for any specific food. She was only known for being a trailblazer for women in starting up a business, etc. She's over rated.

Barbecue!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Barbecue for Houston. It's all the rage at every Rodeo event. Every ethnicity makes it and its always great. Ninfa does not deserve the credit for any specific food. She was only known for being a trailblazer for women in starting up a business, etc. She's over rated.

Barbecue!

Barbecue is too generic. Lots of cities claim barbecue as their own: Dallas, Shreveport, Charlotte, Memphis, Nashville, Kansas City, even Cincinnati!

According to an hour-long documentary on barbecue I saw on the History Channel, the concept of barbecue is from Haitian indians, and came to America through the traders in North Carolina.

Ninfa may be over-rated, but she's at least a Houstonian and at least had the luck/foresight/whatever to serve fajitas in her restaurant first.

As explained in the Food Network show, nachos were an accidental success, too; but still a success. And if Houston doesn't declare itself the birthplace of fajitas, people will continue to assume that they're from Mexico.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a link to your story:

In 1948, Ninfa Rodriguez Laurenzo, a Mexican-American woman, and her Italian-American husband, Tommy Laurenzo, opened a tortilla and pizza dough factory in Houston. The factory wasn't succeeding, so they borrowed money and opened a Mexican restaurant called Ninfa's. Because the restaurant became so popular, they closed down the tortilla factory and concentrated on the restaurant. Around 1973, Nifa's version of the fajita was created at the suggestion of a customer who had just returned from a trip to Mexico City and asked the staff to slice a piece of steak into thin strips so he could make an upscale taco. Once the accompaniments were added - cilantro, onion, tomatoes, chilies, sour cream, and cheese - the new fajita dish became a house specialty. Originally called "tacos al carbon," it was later trademarked as "tacos a la Ninfa." Later the restaurant begin to use the term "fajitas."

Ninfa's Fajitas

food_side1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, Mama Ninfa does deserve the credit for bringing fajitas to the mainstream. She was the first to start serving them to the gringos of Houston.

As far as cowboys in the '40s eating fajitas, I'm going to have to disagree with that one. Fajitas were eaten by Rancheros a lot earlier than that. When a calf was slaughtered on a ranch for the owner, the farmhands were given everthing the owner didn't want. Thus, was born fajitas (inside skirt steak - originally meat from the inside of the ribs), menudo (tripe), lengua (tounge), barbacoa (cheek meat).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fajitas works. I am too full on a Monday to go order a plate and take a picture. I spent all weekend eating Tex-Mex, of course.

One thing that is Houston is kolaches. I could hardly find them in Dallas.

The sausage kind, of course, even though a real Bohunk will tell you that's not a true kolache.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well yeah, but Seattle isn't the birthplace of coffee, nor Chicago of pizza. Isn't a matter of popularization and specialization?

i can agree. but i think it would be more than fajitas but texmex in general. a good bowl of frijoles a la charra would be great right now!

One thing that is Houston is kolaches. I could hardly find them in Dallas.

The sausage kind, of course, even though a real Bohunk will tell you that's not a true kolache.

klobase!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well yeah, but Seattle isn't the birthplace of coffee, nor Chicago of pizza. Isn't a matter of popularization and specialization?

Bingo. Someone gets it. That's why I used the word fajita "capitol" instead of "birthplace."

For the benefit of those of you who prefer to believe conventional wisdom and urban legend over research, the explanation on the Food Network went thusly:

The cowboy slang for what we now call "skirt steak" was "faja" -- likely a corruption of the Spanish word for "belt" (falda.) It isn't a particularly great piece of meat, which is why it has to be sliced thin and at a particular angle to the grain to make it taste better and easier to eat.

The cowboys on the range paired these thin strips of meat up with the ubiquitous tortillas, yes probably along the border but then the border was much fuzzier in those days, and "faja"+"tortilla" became "fajita."

It's interesting that the description from Ninfa's web page doesn't align with the Food Network story, considering the fact that the Food Network shot some of its show at Ninfa's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A typical (and kind of lame) use of foods like this is in sports championship games, where the mayor of City A makes a bet with the mayor of City B for delivery of some specialty local food. Does anyone know what the food bet was with St Louis when Houston was in the World Series a couple years ago? Was it fajitas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just don't see the Houston and 'Que connection.

Sure, it's a staple like water and white bread, but it's more central Texas terriroty. And what makes that unique is the use of beef and mesquite.

That's what seperates Texas 'Que from the immators and emulators. Not to mention the pig picklers back East.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fajitas works. I am too full on a Monday to go order a plate and take a picture. I spent all weekend eating Tex-Mex, of course.

One thing that is Houston is kolaches. I could hardly find them in Dallas.

The sausage kind, of course, even though a real Bohunk will tell you that's not a true kolache.

I love Kolaches! And you're right ... I think the only place you can reliably find such a variety (kolaches as well as establishments that make them) is Houston.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe everyone knows this already and I'm just too Yankee to be on the bandwagon, but according to what I just saw on the Food Network, Houston made Fajitas mainstream (and Dallas did so with nachos, but that's another story). According to the show, fajitas were invented in the 1940's by Texas cowboys, and that Ninfa's in Houston was the first restaurant to serve them to the public. I always knew Ninfa's was a big deal in Houston because people talked about it all the time, but no one ever explained the history to me; I just thought people liked the food.

Now that I'm enlightened, I am proclaiming Houston The Fajita Capitol Of The World.

If anyone has a picture of fajitas or can take a snap of one with their cameraphone at lunch today, I'll use it to make a HAIF title graphic like the ones for Christmas and Mother's Day.

Fajitas were invented in San Antonio. Originally, they were served only on sunday, after mass, family style. You would order by the pound (there was one kind, beef) and sit at long retangular tables, and big bowls of guac, tortillas, pico de gallo, sour cream, etc. Thats why they come unasembled. If any restaraunt popularized them it was margaritas on the mercado.

Ninfas started marketing them as tacos al carbon, already made, but you only got a few. This was in the 1970s. Friends from san antonio saw me order them, then took me to san antonio local restaruants including margaritas, on sunday. It was a post mass family event.

San antonio has two distinct foods that I think grew out of the hide and tallow industry. The spanish cattle were bread for their hides (replaced today by plastic) and tallow. This meant that they were not good meat cows. The tough or greay parts of the meet were simply discarded by the hyde and tallow factories. This created an oportunity. Thus chili con carne, marinated spiced, cut into small pieces and cooked for hours originated in san antonio. I believe that fajitas originated the same way. I remember trying to get skirt steak in houston in the 1970s and butchers told me that they dont do trashy cuts.

My candidate for a distinctive houston food would have to be Antoine/s poor boys. They are not made anywhere else, prior to the antones chain. They were started in the 30s or 40s in Houston, by decendents of Antoines of New Orleans. Later descendents started Antoines blues club in austin, and briefly sold poorboys there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get po' boys like Antone's in New Orleans too, and that cold-cut/french bread sandwich is available under other names all over America.

What about the Vietnamese po' boy as a Houston icon?

As for kolaches, you can get them in Prague, and I bet wherever Czechs have settled in America too. And even in Texas, the best ones are in places like Halletsville, Brenham and Colombus. Seems like you should have the best of something if you want to be the capital of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...