AJXterra Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 So we're going to be doing a kitchen remodel in the early summer and we're in the planning phases right now and I'm wanting to remove a wall, obviously. Here's my question, single story home, suporting beams in attic connecting to this section of wall...is there any way that this is a load bearing wall?I'm trying to avoid hiring an architect to look at one wall and just want to know if there are some credentials for walls to be load bearing or what you have to do to remove it. Thanks!AJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedScare Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 So we're going to be doing a kitchen remodel in the early summer and we're in the planning phases right now and I'm wanting to remove a wall, obviously. Here's my question, single story home, suporting beams in attic connecting to this section of wall...is there any way that this is a load bearing wall?I'm trying to avoid hiring an architect to look at one wall and just want to know if there are some credentials for walls to be load bearing or what you have to do to remove it. Thanks!AJ....supporting beams in attic connecting to this section of wall....That sounds like the definition of a load bearing wall. In all reality, if you do not know how to discern if a wall is load bearing, you will have to get an expert to look at it. Myself, or any other poster can only make an educated guess based on what you post. If you observe incorrectly, or leave out a critical issue, our guesses are based on incorrect information, and are therefore, wrong.Load bearing walls can take several forms. Obviously, if the rafters begin or end atop this wall, it is probably load bearing. However, it could also be load bearing if it is used to support a rafter at midpoint, allowing for smaller rafters. The main purpose of a load bearing wall in a one-story structure is to support the roof, and the rafters. That means that the four exterior walls are definitely load bearing, and usually one center wall is load bearing. In a wide hous, there might be two interior load bearing walls. Walls running parallel to the rafters are "usually" not load bearing.If you remember how loads are transferred from high school physics, you can look at the rafters and roof supports and figure out which ones bear loads. If you do not know how that works, get an expert.EDIT: I just noticed you are a Woodland Hts resident. What are the dimensions of your house, and where is the kitchen located? What year was it built? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicman Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 It should be pretty easy to determine once you get into the attic. if the ceiling joists run parallel to the wall in question, that is a pretty good indication that it isn't a load bearing wall. then check whether any roof supports end up on the wall. if not, that is another good indication. if it is a load bearing wall, you should install a header to support the weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm1fd Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 if it is a load bearing wall, you should install a header to support the weight.To add to the above, you should install a couple extra peirs underneath the house wherever the support posts for the header end up, espescially if you're supporting a long span. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flipper Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 To add to the above, you should install a couple extra peirs underneath the house wherever the support posts for the header end up, espescially if you're supporting a long span.Huh?There definetly isn't enough information given in AJXterra's post to suggest this.flipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJXterra Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 ok, well to be exact we're not removing an entire wall...we're enlarging and moving a door into the kitchen. Current door is 36" and it has a pocket door to the direction we'll be moving it for another 36". My gut and everything logical that I can think of tells me this shouldn't be a problem but I wanted to ask for other thoughts or things to consider. All together we're 'altering' 1/2 of the length of wall there. We're moving the door 36" and then widening it to 54"-60". Leaving about a foot from the corner of the wall that is a load bearing. Reframing the original door and adding to the wall there. From looking in the attic there are no roof supports located in this whole span and the wall runs parallel to the joints.House is 1500 square feet...kitchen is on one side mid-way back. This wall separates the living room from the kitchen and other than the door runs 1/2 the width of the house. Whole house is shiplap on top of framing...I plan on putting the shiplap back up on the new framing or is this a bad idea? I was planning on reinforcing around the new door frame regardless. 1 story, no piers under house in this vicinity either. Don't worry, I know this is all on me just wanted a little feedback. In the planning phases so don't want any big surprises later on b/c knowing this house there's bound to be plenty of little ones. Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicman Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 ok, well to be exact we're not removing an entire wall...we're enlarging and moving a door into the kitchen. Current door is 36" and it has a pocket door to the direction we'll be moving it for another 36". My gut and everything logical that I can think of tells me this shouldn't be a problem but I wanted to ask for other thoughts or things to consider. All together we're 'altering' 1/2 of the length of wall there. We're moving the door 36" and then widening it to 54"-60". Leaving about a foot from the corner of the wall that is a load bearing. Reframing the original door and adding to the wall there. From looking in the attic there are no roof supports located in this whole span and the wall runs parallel to the joints.so if the pocket door is in the space you want to move the door towards, you will most likely luck out. the pocket door should already have a header of some sorts somewhere in the neighborhood of 72" (if your door is 36"). i'm assuming you no longer want the pocket door but just an opening?House is 1500 square feet...kitchen is on one side mid-way back. This wall separates the living room from the kitchen and other than the door runs 1/2 the width of the house. Whole house is shiplap on top of framing...I plan on putting the shiplap back up on the new framing or is this a bad idea? I was planning on reinforcing around the new door frame regardless. 1 story, no piers under house in this vicinity either. Don't worry, I know this is all on me just wanted a little feedback. In the planning phases so don't want any big surprises later on b/c knowing this house there's bound to be plenty of little ones. Thanks all!shiplap is a good idea. if you have it, do what you can to keep it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJXterra Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 so if the pocket door is in the space you want to move the door towards, you will most likely luck out. the pocket door should already have a header of some sorts somewhere in the neighborhood of 72" (if your door is 36"). i'm assuming you no longer want the pocket door but just an opening?Yeah, just an opening that's a little larger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedScare Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 That does not sound like it is load bearing. Like musicman said, there may well be a header across the pocket door, as well. If you cut very carefully, you can save most of the wall. Here is what I did with my kitchen wall. After cutting out the opening, I installed 2 2x6 headers side by side along the top of the opening, with 2x4s on each end for support. I was able to reuse the drywall, since we cut it very carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicman Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Yeah, just an opening that's a little larger.then you'll probably have to lengthen the header but that shouldn't take em long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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