Using 2x6 To Build New House

[texas911]

So I was watching This Old House last Sunday, and they are in New Orleans redoing some houses that was destroyed by Katrina. A feel good story with nice short vignettes of how the city is rebuilding itself. Anyway, the house that they are restoring has a new addition to it. And they are using 2x6's. One reason they gave was that the ceiling height was tall to match the original house, something like 11 feet, and they needed it for structure, but one benefit was they could use more insulation. Nice idea. How much more would it cost to use 2x6's compared to 2x4's?

[musicman]

but one benefit was they could use more insulation. Nice idea.

there's a house built with 2x6's over by almeda mall on the east side of 45 built by a framer for his family. he said it did make a difference on his ac/heating bill.

[BryanS]

Do 2x6, if you can. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot, look at the price of a 2x4 and a 2x6, and you'll get an idea. You'll get a stronger structure, plus the added volume for more insulation. Can't go wrong.

[RedScare]

Do 2x6, if you can. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot, look at the price of a 2x4 and a 2x6, and you'll get an idea. You'll get a stronger structure, plus the added volume for more insulation. Can't go wrong.

Well, it is not quite that simple, but it is still worth looking at. Here's just one link. Google "2x6 added cost" and you'll find plenty of articles.

http://www.advancedenergy.org/buildings/kn...2x4_or_2x6.html

[crunchtastic]

I'm clueless on framing. Is the idea just using more wood? Like shiplap in old houses?

It's amazing how long some old wood-frame houses stay standing; I always assumed it's because it was pre-sheetrock.

[musicman]

I'm clueless on framing. Is the idea just using more wood? Like shiplap in old houses?

instead of the wall cavities being ~4" thick they are ~6in thick so you'd have room for some additional insulation.

Edited February 13, 2008 by musicman

[Jeebus]

instead of the wall cavities being ~4" thick they are ~6in thick so you'd have room for some additional insulation.

You're really only getting 5 inches of thickness, instead of 3.

I'm talking lumber here people..

[musicman]

You're really only getting 5 inches of thickness, instead of 3.

add 0.5 to those and i'd agree. i was trying to keep it simple for the layperson

[Jeebus]

add 0.5 to those and i'd agree. i was trying to keep it simple for the layperson

Of course. I just didn't want some one to over calculate their savings. It's better to come in low, and save more - than to come in high and save less.

[TJones]

Of course. I just didn't want some one to over calculate their savings. It's better to come in low, and save more - than to come in high and save less.

ALWAYS underpromise and overdeliver.

[jgs1419]

Another strategy in using 2x6 frame lumber is to space it on 24" centers in lieu of 16" centers typically used for 2x4s. You get the added depth of insulation (3.5" vs 5.5") and the minimization of thermal bridges and or dead space in the wall. If planned properly, you can stack the floor joists, wall framing, and ceiling joists. We built two houses last year with 2x6x24" throughout and it makes a marked difference in the energy consumption. It is hard for me to comment on the cost versus 2x4 framing because we also used some other frame upgrades to contribute to the quality of the building envelope. Sundrie costs for using 2x6 framing include door frames and window jamb extensions but they are nominal. Once you have some stern discussions with your framer, the frame labor is the same. The studs cost more but you tend to use less total board feet, there are some sundrie costs that are affected but I bet all in all it doesn't add more than 5% to the total frame cost.

We are about to frame two more using the same methodology. If you want to see them, PM me and I'll give you a tour - both are custom homes in The Heights. We're just finishing the foundations, probably be another month before we have the frame up and ready to look at. One of the houses is in the LEED-H program.

[TJones]

Another strategy in using 2x6 frame lumber is to space it on 24" centers in lieu of 16" centers typically used for 2x4s. You get the added depth of insulation (3.5" vs 5.5") and the minimization of thermal bridges and or dead space in the wall. If planned properly, you can stack the floor joists, wall framing, and ceiling joists. We built two houses last year with 2x6x24" throughout and it makes a marked difference in the energy consumption. It is hard for me to comment on the cost versus 2x4 framing because we also used some other frame upgrades to contribute to the quality of the building envelope. Sundrie costs for using 2x6 framing include door frames and window jamb extensions but they are nominal. Once you have some stern discussions with your framer, the frame labor is the same. The studs cost more but you tend to use less total board feet, there are some sundrie costs that are affected but I bet all in all it doesn't add more than 5% to the total frame cost.

We are about to frame two more using the same methodology. If you want to see them, PM me and I'll give you a tour - both are custom homes in The Heights. We're just finishing the foundations, probably be another month before we have the frame up and ready to look at. One of the houses is in the LEED-H program.

I was a custom builder like yourself and the only thing I object to is your methodology of spacing 24 inches here in South Texas and being only 50 miles from the coast where we get our fair share of Hurricanes and Tropical storms, and occasional Tornadoes. In my opinion, and I realize I have only built about 50 homes in my lifetime, the two inches of depth won't compensate for the lack of rigidity of putting studs closer together for a stronger framework. This methodology of 24 inches was widely used in the suburbs of Houston back in the 70's. My neighbor, who is the contractor for ALL the Starbucks being built in this region, and I will be tearing down his detached garage to rebuild it within the next couple of months because it is spaced at 24" and we are of the same school of thought that it just isn't as good as 16 inches. this is one case of bigger isn't always better.

Edited February 13, 2008 by TJones

[gwilson]

ALWAYS underpromise and overdeliver.

No no no...

Always bet the over under and then promise to deliver.

Sheesh

I was a custom builder like yourself and the only thing I object to is your methodology of spacing 24 inches here in South Texas and being only 50 miles from the coast where we get our fair share of Hurricanes and Tropical storms, and occasional Tornadoes. In my opinion, and I realize I have only built about 50 homes in my lifetime, the two inches of depth won't compensate for the lack of rigidity of putting studs closer together for a stronger framework. This methodology of 24 inches was widely used in the suburbs of Houston back in the 70's. My neighbor, who is the contractor for ALL the Starbucks being built in this region, and I will be tearing down his detached garage to rebuild it within the next couple of months because it is spaced at 24" and we are of the same school of thought that it just isn't as good as 16 inches. this is one case of bigger isn't always better.

This is why shear walls and nail patterns are so important.

I personally would never build 24" mainly because I find it hard to believe that an engineer would allow such a thing for the size of homes I build. I suppose if the engineer signs off on it though, it wouldn't be an issue.

[Heights2Bastrop]

The November 2005 Fine Homebuilding has an article on

[cgallagher]

2x6x24? No thank you. I like adding the 1/2" rigid foam board to the exterior. This gives you a continuous insulation barrier all around the home. It works well on siding and brick. I use it instead of housewrap whenever I can.