GREASER

Im not sure if this would even apply to this forum..but it seems alot of people here are performing remodels and asking alot of questions. Car sights I participate in have these sections and its very good for references. I am dying to post pics, but do not want to take up bandwith or unnecesary space.

Does anyone else care about the builds/remodels?

I see it in older houses, assuming its to stop steam/humidity from building up in the area. Not sure I have see it on newer homes though. I am rerocking the bathroom and trying to decide if I actually NEED to have a shorter or ceiling or not. Suggestions?

Enlarge it..the money spent will be about the same, and you will get more useable space. Guessing you have a modular shower contraption..you will be able to get rid of that and install a real shower...think about how much a nice shower is worth over a few yrs.

http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html this is a very basic principle. just plastic hollow pellets that insulate like a double pane window. its used in the car industry with products like "lizard skin". follow that link and paint your house with it.

Where is Vicman with his school info? Is there a happy hr prior to this?

They Ikea product is almost exactly the same as Kraftmaids stuff. Ikea uses Blum hardware which is top notch. After looking at construction, as much as I want to knock it, the ikea product is nice.

I loved that place. My friends and I would always meet up there. They always treated us like rockstars. They would always ask, "are yall famous?" It was the same question everytime. Drinks good, food mediocre. It did close for a while..hell, I didnt even know it was open.

Ikea is the way to go. We installed a 10x10 kitchen and it was around 2600.00 for cabinets. The generic birch ones at the home store look good also. Stain them with a amber stain and it brings out the grain. They are like 30$ each.

Greaser I think you are thinking of Boric Acid. Cockroaches aren't too keen about it either.

BORACARE..ck it out..its the best thing out right now. You can buy it out of state without a license.

you have to tell them before they show up that they need to get under the house...once on sight they will have a million reasons why they cant get under...google dog and termites..the company has trained dogs (very small) and can sniff out active termites..they have a 97 or 98 percent success rate. Then have the underneath sprayed with a chemical that termites wont touch...I think its called Bora...? That will last 40 or 50 yrs. Send PM if you need specifics.

speaking of saint arnolds, I am proud to say one of my best friends did the artwork for their new beer El Santo. Look for it.

I bet all those townhouses and houses built today will be considered historic in 50 years.

They will be landfill in 50 yrs.

mine was 2 story with 700sf base..it was 1200$..only 3 inches up in the back...they arent liable for anything...

Loma did mine and wasnt super impressed...Pfister (sp?) are the ones I hear best things about. Be prepared to have cracked sheetrock and possible loose pipes when they are done.

Get a new survey. She could be in the wrong, but the fence could be encroaching on her property. As long as you pay and have the info it will work in your favor (by not saying anything if your wrong)

Its against the law to redirect runoff water to someone elses yard.

Run 4in PVC to the street anyway. I had 2 day laborers, 8$/hr, dig 50 feet in 2 hrs. Then 1hr to lay the pipe and cover it up.

They arent insulated at all. They have a gap at the bottom and top. I am going to make a frame from aluminum square tubing...now does anyone know where i can get some translucent panels that will stand up to weather? Thinking of maybe a roofing product? It has to be flat and not ridged like some fiberglass panels..any suggestions?

Tractor Supply stores have the whole setup...its a track that looks like two C channels put together with a couple of rolling hangers. Its something that is used on barns I found out. Can hold doors up to 450lbs

I am tossing around ideas for a garage door. The garage is a flat roof, so even the coolest roll ups wont do. I have seen some that roll around like pocket doors...you can only get to one side of the garage at a time. The doors just move from side to side, they dont actually go into a pocket. My first thought was just a galv. metal ind. style frame with wheels, just like at a whse, but with panels attached to the front to give a floating affect. Thats my best idea so far..anyone have anything better? I am not worried about security (its behind a fence) as much as just blocking most the rain and keeping things kinda hidden.

ck this site out

http://www.architectureandhygiene.com/main.html

some good ideas

I have really been thinking of the modular blocks. Have one plumbed for a kitchen, or bathroom, where you get it to the site and just plug in power/water and go. You could have one prewired for a/c etc.

I need a garage. I have a huge lot (28k) and want to put a garage at the back of the lot. I cannot stop thinking of how to use cargo containers. Was thinking of 2 20ft.containers spaced 16 ft apart and a flat roof/between the two, or pitched over the whole thing. I love the art building in the Heights (on 11th) and it actually looks very nice. A new 20 ft container is 2700$. 8ft wide and 8ft tall. They weight 4800lbs, so they could even be put on blocks. I would have the containers for storage and the space in between for the cars. The containers would provide the support for any roof structure. Anyone else have some ideas with these containers...and yes,I have seen all the other websites. Google cargotecture and there are a alot, but nothing like I am thinking. Any input is appreciated.

The cemetary is/was at the end of Mapleton. I think some/most is under water now.

I am very leery of moving companies.... Looking for someone that is trustworth..any suggestions??

the media has been calling it "the working side of town" for some time now.

Do you know how many layers of roofing material you have? It takes alot to break a beam...any way you can use a scissor jack (like the ones in a car) and jack up the areas needed. Run a 2x6 lengthwise at the saggiest points then get a jack maybe every 8 feet and using 2x4s to push, jack it up till everything is even then put in new boards (if they were 2x4..I would use 2x6 and just mimick whats already there...or just call someone.