New Arbor on my Deck

[RedScare]

Fellow HAIFers!

I need some help. I am buying some 16 foot long 4x4s to build a cover on my deck on Saturday. Being the first of the month, virtually every UHaul trailer is already rented. I only need it for a few hours, to get my lumber from the lumber yard to my house.

Does anyone have access to a 12 to 16 foot flatbed trailer that I can borrow? I will bring my own hitch and straps, only need the trailer.

EDIT: Since I keep adding arbor photos to this thread, I have changed the thread title.

[gwilson]

I've got a friend with a milsurp deuce and a half that might work. I don't know if he'd charge to use it though.

Home depot will deliver has trucks and trailers you can rent on site and pretty much any lumber yard will deliver for you.

[TJones]

I've got a friend with a milsurp deuce and a half that might work. I don't know if he'd charge to use it though.

Home depot will deliver has trucks and trailers you can rent on site and pretty much any lumber yard will deliver for you.

I got him covered Wilson. Yeah, ME "the idiot" is gonna help his ol' buddy Red out. LOL! What a sucker I am.

[GREASER]

if your buying it from lowes or homedepot, have it delivered...its only 25 bucks and they unload it

[RedScare]

Muchos gracias to TJones for the trailer rescue on Friday. In spite of the fact that it took an hour and 40 minutes to get to his dealership in Katy, and the liquid payment I paid once we got the trailer hooked up (nice scenery in Katy, TJ), it was worth it to have all of my lumber ready when the help arrived Saturday morning. And gas money and beers was STILL cheaper than going to Home Depot, where I could have had the lumber delivered! Montalbano lumber was well over $100 cheaper, and it is much better quality.

Thanks again, TJ. Here's some pics of the somewhat finished product.

Valentina gives her approval to the much cooler deck.

[musicman]

what's on the roof Red? are those fiberglass panels? or wooden straps?

[RedScare]

what's on the roof Red? are those fiberglass panels? or wooden straps?

1x2 treated wood strips, spaced 1 1/2 inches.

Eventually, the deck will extend to the fence, and 10 feet down the side of the house. We only finished the arbor to the fence this weekend.

[TJones]

Muchos gracias to TJones for the trailer rescue on Friday. In spite of the fact that it took an hour and 40 minutes to get to his dealership in Katy, and the liquid payment I paid once we got the trailer hooked up (nice scenery in Katy, TJ), it was worth it to have all of my lumber ready when the help arrived Saturday morning. And gas money and beers was STILL cheaper than going to Home Depot, where I could have had the lumber delivered! Montalbano lumber was well over $100 cheaper, and it is much better quality.

Thanks again, TJ. Here's some pics of the somewhat finished product.

Valentina gives her approval to the much cooler deck.

No Prob. And Muchos Gracias for the brews. That was unexpected, no payment was neccessary really, but far be it from me to deny a Lawyer to buy me a beer or two. Those were good beers too, wish I could have gotten a kitchen pass for a bit longer, but I am like Kenny Rogers, I know when to hold'em and when to fold'em.

[musicman]

1x2 treated wood strips, spaced 1 1/2 inches.

Eventually, the deck will extend to the fence, and 10 feet down the side of the house. We only finished the arbor to the fence this weekend.

lookin' good. your house will be party central.

[Guest Marty]

It looks cool and comfortable, I am thinking about removing the aluminum M panel from my 10X20 and going 1X2.

[RedScare]

Added some lumber to the deck and arbor this weekend.

I removed the remaining fence on the side of the house, then extended the deck over to the fence along the property line. I also ran it beside the house for 10 feet. I then extended the arbor over the new deck, so that it shades the entire west side of the house, plus 10 feet along the south side. I added a couple of hooks to two of the posts, so that I could hang my hammock, but given that afternoon temps were around 100 yesterday, I didn't spend a lot of time lounging in the hammock....maybe in October.

Hopefully, this week I will get the skirt built and installed, so that those ugly concrete blocks will not be noticeable. Looks like I need to paint my new storm door, as well.

*If one of the mods could move this thread from Classifieds to Home Repair, that would be much appreciated.*

[musicman]

seems like that hammock is in a bad location. (between the door and the steps) i could see it on the new section you added by your neighbor's fence.

[Guest danax]

*If one of the mods could move this thread from Classifieds to Home Repair, that would be much appreciated.*

Taken care of...

It looks good, Red. Some hanging vines would look great, maybe Thunbergia (skyflower) to match your trim. You've got a wraparound deck in the back, kind of a hybrid between the 70s and the turn of the century. Now all you need is a hot tub made out of bead board and the look would be complete.

Off subject a little but, did you have to replace any clapboards? I'm having a very hard time locating a source for them.

[RedScare]

Thx, danax. I did not need to replace any boards when I painted. I also have a few extras from when I removed a wall that had been added to the side of my front porch (I know, didn't make sense to me either). If you only need a couple, I'll give them to you.

Have you tried Historic Houston? Also, I have heard Montalbano has them, though I've never asked.

As for vines, etc., I am open to suggestions. I will probably hang some baskets, but am also considering some floor pots and lattice along the fence to let them grow up.

Music, though the hammock placement is not my preferred location, it works, in that there is walking space behind the post by the back door. I am limited in my choices because I need 13 feet between posts. Most of the posts only have 9 to 11 feet between them. I may end up adding another post somewhere for optimum placement.

[TJones]

I would say some nice Wysteria plants, 2 on each side, would be very nice, and cover very quickly.

[musicman]

As for vines, etc., I am open to suggestions. I will probably hang some baskets, but am also considering some floor pots and lattice along the fence to let them grow up.

Music, though the hammock placement is not my preferred location, it works, in that there is walking space behind the post by the back door. I am limited in my choices because I need 13 feet between posts. Most of the posts only have 9 to 11 feet between them. I may end up adding another post somewhere for optimum placement.

i have some purple passionflower vines growing randomly out of my backyard. i can pot some of the smaller ones if you'd like. once established they do well. i don't do a thing and they grow great. i would stay away from wisteria. that stuff is hard to get rid of and is quite invasive.

the hammock change would be easy IMO. it is looking great since i saw it earlier this yr. definite party central. i'll bet the additional cover makes your kitchen cooler too which is a big bonus in weather like this.

EDIT: i see TJ and i disagree on the wisteria.

[TJones]

You just have to keep your eye on that stuff musicman, and you can train it to go where you want. I have had no problems with mine, and it keeps it supercool out back, very pretty flowers also.

[musicman]

You just have to keep your eye on that stuff musicman, and you can train it to go where you want. I have had no problems with mine, and it keeps it supercool out back, very pretty flowers also.

i have some on the side of the house that i've been trying to get rid of for yrs. you think you get it all and well, it's back. yeah definitely maintenance is required for that.

[Gary]

Red, how deep did you sink the uprights? The reason I ask is I've been considering putting up an arbor on my back patio at about the same height. I was thinking that 3 feet should just about do it.

Also... Did you use #2 treated? I've looked into going #1 all heart, but it's an arm and a leg.

[RedScare]

Gary, I planned on 3 feet. However, once I got to 28 to 30 inches, it became difficult to get the post hole digger handles wide enough to pull the dirt out. So, being the perfectionist that I am, I said, "F' it, close enough". I promise you, though, 28 inches looks pretty deep. If you are concerned, you can drive some nails in the sides of the post for extra support.

I used .25 pcf treated lumber, including the posts. It is recommended that wood in contact with the ground be .40 pcf, but I don't think .25 will fail anytime soon. Use a lumber yard like Montalbano instead of Home Depot. Better wood, and much cheaper...as much as 30%.

By the way, that 2 months of solid rain made my post hole digging the easiest I've ever done! The ground was dry, but it was soft to dig in.

[gnu]

Off subject a little but, did you have to replace any clapboards? I'm having a very hard time locating a source for them.

Danax, try Stahlman. I got some there a few years back.

[Guest danax]

Danax, try Stahlman. I got some there a few years back.

Wow. Great tip Gnu, thanks. I hadn't tried them yet and, sure enough, they've got it, in both cedar and redwood. I was beginning to think I was going to have to order a truckload from a mill in Maine.

[Gary]

Gary, I planned on 3 feet. However, once I got to 28 to 30 inches, it became difficult to get the post hole digger handles wide enough to pull the dirt out. So, being the perfectionist that I am, I said, "F' it, close enough". I promise you, though, 28 inches looks pretty deep. If you are concerned, you can drive some nails in the sides of the post for extra support.

Because of my lousy clay soil (hard as a rock) I considered drilling a hole toward the bottom of each upright, and putting a piece of rebar through it. I do have access to a 2 man auger but would rather not use it. Anyway, thanks for the confirmation.

I used .25 pcf treated lumber, including the posts. It is recommended that wood in contact with the ground be .40 pcf, but I don't think .25 will fail anytime soon. Use a lumber yard like Montalbano instead of Home Depot. Better wood, and much cheaper...as much as 30%.

I'm assuming that .25 is number 2? Sorry I only know ACQ pine by 1, 2, 3, or 4.

Edit: Found this on the net, so I got my question answered. Thanks Red.

"The boards for above ground use are given a chemical retention level of .25 per cubic foot (pcf). The ground contact boards are given a .40 pcf. The higher the pcf number the more the wood is protected. The only boards that are marked for ground contact are 4x4 and 6x6 post boards. Remember, these boards are intended to be buried in the ground. How will above ground .25 pcf boards do with ground contact? The industry feels that the .25 pcf level is enough to fully protect an above ground board. We trust the industry experts and use the above ground .25 pcf boards to build our chairs and tables."

[Parrothead]

Looks very nice, Red! I like the hammock. Now you need one of those galvanized buckets with ice and some longnecks in it!

[westguy76]

Looks great Red. How did you attach the boards to one another. Sometimes I see them notched and sitting together like lincoln logs. trying to decide which way to build one.

[Gary]

Looks great Red. How did you attach the boards to one another. Sometimes I see them notched and sitting together like lincoln logs. trying to decide which way to build one.

I can't tell from the photo how Red did it, but I'm going to use T or L brackets as fasteners.

[RedScare]

The 4x4 posts are notched at the top, and the 2x8 beams lay in the notch and are nailed to the post. The 2x6 joists lay on top of the beams, and are toe-nailed to the beam. The 1x2 stringers on top are nailed to the joists, and provide rigidity to the joists. The beams and joists were nailed with 2 1/2 inch ring shank nails, using a nail gun, so they aren't going anywhere.

A few of the deck beams were attached using galvanized joist hangers, but most of it was designed so that we could nail them straight into the side of the posts, or into the end of the beam. None of the deck beams or joists are toe-nailed. The old half of the deck used deck screws, but the nail gun is so fast that the new portion is all nailed with galvanized ring-shank nails. Brackets and hangers can be very strong, and allow you to hang joists differently, but I find them unattractive, so I designed the arbor so that I did not have to use them.

If possible, buy or rent a nail gun. It speeds up attachment incredibly, and is far more accurate than hand nailing.

[Gary]

The 4x4 posts are notched at the top, and the 2x8 beams lay in the notch and are nailed to the post. The 2x6 joists lay on top of the beams, and are toe-nailed to the beam. The 1x2 stringers on top are nailed to the joists, and provide rigidity to the joists. The beams and joists were nailed with 2 1/2 inch ring shank nails, using a nail gun, so they aren't going anywhere.

It's kinda hard to tell, but from the look of the photo the notch in the uprights seems to be about midway through the width of the post, and maybe half a foot down. Is that right? I ask because after reading the last post I'm thinking twice about using the fastners I was considering. If your notch is midway through the width of the beam (4X4) it seems to me that 2" wouldn't be enough strength over time.

[Trae]

Splinters aside, I could take a nap on that thing. Looks smooth. Love the hammock.

[RedScare]

The notch is actually a hair under 1.5 inches in, and 7.5 inches tall. The reason is that a 2x8 is actually 1.5x7.5. By making the notch a little under 1.5 inches, it overhangs just enough to give it a better look. The notch has no effect on strength, as all of the force is downward, not sideways. The bottom of the notch takes all of the weight and transfer it downward through the post to the ground. If a hanger were used, most of the downward force would be transferred to the post, however, all of the force would be transferred to the post through the nails used to attach the hanger to the post. This is not a big deal, since the arbor is not overly heavy (no one is walking on it), but a straight downward force is preferable to a side loaded force.

So, the beam laying in the notch can actually support a heavier load. The same goes for the joists. Laying them atop the beam is stronger than hanging them on the side with hangers.