innerlooper

JB I am curious, looking at your chart, why do you have that spike in the morning, and then a big drop at lunch. The afternoon-evening spike is understandable. Thanks

Thank you Musicman. We are less than two weeks away from the registration deadline and a lot of rent property folks I'm talking to have never even heard of this ordinance. It was on TV and in the paper a couple of times but no mailed notification (presumably which could be created from HCAD records). There are hundreds if not thousands of little four to eight unit places out there, many owned by non-English speakers and/ or out of towners, and I'm wondering if we're not going to have a major scofflaw event here. While the intent of detecting and ameliorating hazardous conditions at rentals is a noble one, this may be a case of overreaching, particularly in a historically sloppy municipal oversight town like H. Comments?

More info including the checklist can be found here: http://www.houstonmultifamily.org/ Dumb question: does an owner-occupied triplex have to be submitted to this program? Thanks.

Doing a little 10x10 kitchen and need suggestions for an "affordable" solid surface countertop installer. I like the one-piece sink feature. Did a similar size a couple of years ago with Gibraltar product via a nice showroom and it cost an arm and a leg. Thanks.

Try this guy. A-1 Inspections 281-650-9243 R. (Sean) Chou TREC #4515 chou77479@entouch.net

Anyone having any luck with the city sold permit search page? When I do get a "result" it consists of gobs of HTML code. Win XP, IE8. Also tried Safari 3, Opera, Netscape 7. Page is: http://www.cohtora.houstontx.gov/ibi_html/sldpmtsl.htm Thanks.

Paul Gollub is your man for Transite (cement-asbestos) shingles/ repairs. Don't have a number handy.

Popular width back then was 34" which is largely obsolete today for exterior doors. So might have to be custom made. If you do find a reasonable match at a salvage place, measure very carefully. Old door may have been trimmed to match a racking jamb and unless you want to add dutchmen, won't fit properly. Also your jamb may be twisted (jamb legs not plumb to each other) or the replacement door may be twisted, creating more headaches. Jeld-wen has a nice Bungalow door selection, but pricey: http://www.jeld-wen.com/exteriordoors/wood/customwood/product.cfm/product_id/134

Not a good sign. You can buy just the gas control unit separately. Larger plumbing supply houses have these. Even at $100 its cheaper than a new FVIR heater.

If its an older (pre-2005) heater the thermocouple should be pretty easy to get to and change out. Well stocked hardware stores and home centers have these. Bring the old one with you so you get the right length and type. Note that you are working with gas and if you don't know what you are doing then you could have a gas leak and fire etc that would spoil your whole day. If you have a sealed burner type FVIR heater (2005+), you will need to get a plumber as the burner area has a seal that has to be replaced for proper safety operation.

Builders in Harris Co. use three phase fee inspection system. Goes by either 2006 IRC or COH codes. This is the site where inspectors and builders register/ sign in: https://www.eng.hctx.net/permits/bldgcodes/Default.aspx Don't know about citizen building his or her own crib. The wise owner will at least give a glance to the 2000 IRC (aka the Texas Building Code) to avoid hassles down the road, such as when selling.

The shiplap was never designed to be exposed so presumably you are looking for a rustic look. If you are not going to paint, then you will need to fill gaps with a closely matched caulk. DAP has dark brown available. The planks when applied were not kiln dried hence the 1/4"+ gaps. I have seen some owners remove the wall shiplap (use a cat's paw to get the nails out) and flip it over, packing the edges for a better seal. Start the reinstallation at the ceiling and work down. This will result in a gap at the lowest course to floor, however this can be filled with a ripped piece and/ or covered with baseboard. Removing and flipping may not be possible with the ceiling shiplap. Many bungalows were built with the ceiling planks laid over the top wall plates, hence it is locked into the structure. Be careful about blowing loose-fill insulation into the outside wall. If its balloon-framed, without blocking below, the insulation will just end up under the house. 5" or 6" random orbit sander is definitely the way to go. Use the vacuum attachment if possible. And wear dust and hearing protection.

Maybe. But without getting into the house there is no way to know whether the perils inside are better or worse than outside. quote name='sevfiv' date='Monday, August 31, 2009 at 1:36 PM' timestamp='1251743792' post='339232'] And just think...those old folks would have continued to live in that possibly unsalvageable wreck-of-a-house if it weren't for the criminals! It was a blessing in disguise!

Without actually getting inside this place (and the crawl space and the attic) its not possible to say if it is salvageable, or has "good bones." From photos and even the sidewalk you may not be able to tell that there isn't some fundamental foundation or structural problem here. As a HAR listing its probably been looked at by various flippers and other professionals, and they said either its overpriced (HCAD has the land in the 200Ks), or not worth saving, from an economical point of view.

They took the fence(s) down. Upper areas I guess they do off ladders. Next problem: roof runoff dripline on the west side is right at the fence line. Will builder put in gutter?

Well, it has been resolved. At least this deal. Siding is going up. Now, there is a PREVIOUS lawsuit that is still simmering, from the PREVIOUS owner of the new-build lot, against the neighbor, for messing up her sale to another builder who bailed after a PREVIOUS lot line situation could not be resolved. That case is set for trial in December 2009. Harris Co district courts 200824893. The fun never ends.........

OK the problem has been resolved. Builder dropped suit against neighbor and work has begun to finish the siding. I guess the terms of the settlement would be confidential. Case closed.

End of June update on the 1600 block Vermont St lot lines: nothing's happened to the unfinished exteriors. Builder Brogan claims they are going to go bankrupt if they can't finish and sell. Court denied builder a TRO. Judge apparently is not buying builder's claims. The two units are no longer on HAR.com and sale signs are gone. Stay tuned.

Friday is supposed to be the last day for Ballys on Dunstan. Say what you will about how run-down it was, but the location was great, and that second floor with the track around the perimeter, the views, and that curved staircase with the aluminum guardrails.... it will be missed.

Try Murley?

International Residential Code (the Texas building code) has good span tables. You don't have to use the 2006. The 2000 IRC is fine for this also. Maybe find a used copy somewhere. http://www.amazon.com/2006-International-R...9N9311GXDRH1HME

With a life expectancy of 40+ years, galvanized steel for repairs is still a viable option, depending on someone's needs and budget. If and when we have a hard freeze again, the steel houses will have far fewer pipe failures than the copper or CPVC places. I base that on what I saw in the '87 and '93 freezes. PEX is supposed to "give" a little bit in a freeze but that has yet to be tested around here. One little-mentioned advantage of PEX is that it can be installed using very few sharp turn connectors hence better overall water flow. Copper and CPVC manufacturers should be making long-turn 90 degree sweeps but don't because nobody cares.

Any of those, or good old steel.

A repipe can be expensive/ time consuming, especially concealed connections behind bath sink, WC, and kitchen. But if you are going to stay in the house a long time it might be worth your while. The other thing you could do is just start with a nice new 3/4" main line to some central area of the house, and the water heater, and see if that improves flow, before going into walls. You can add dielectric unions any time you want to the connections that lack them. Every type of pipe has its advantages and disadvantages. PEX (fittings) is being litigated right now in another state. It remains to be seen if city approval here was a good idea or not. PEX is also very sensitive to sunlight and if left exposed in an attic, can decompose. Also there can be long home runs from the manifold, if using a manifold system. So you might have the usual wait for hot water at the shower, and then wait some more for hot at the sink right next to it. I would not do my own PEX. If you mess up the crimp fittings you will regret it. BTW PVC is not approved for water supply in the city except at the outside of the house (IRC and UPC). Jus' becuz they sell it at Lowes Depot doesn't mean it is OK.

Yeah the old duplex had a very narrow "driveway". Maybe a miata would have fit. The fence was there for many years. All of this is not rocket science. The lots there are 50x100 and there are plenty of iron rods to find. Builder screwed up, IMHO.