bluedobie Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Looking for advice on restoring shiplap in an old bungalow. I've removed the sheetrock and "most" of the wallpaper and cheesecloth, still removing the nails used for putting up the wallpaper (lots of cursing), and need to finish removing the mold "dust" left behind from Ike. Plan on lightly sanding by hand when I'm finished...have done so on a portion of one wall as a test. Need to know what type of caulk you've used to make it air/bug tight, any sealant or coating, etc. I plan to leave some walls natural and paint others. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musicman Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 Looking for advice on restoring shiplap in an old bungalow. I've removed the sheetrock and "most" of the wallpaper and cheesecloth, still removing the nails used for putting up the wallpaper (lots of cursing), and need to finish removing the mold "dust" left behind from Ike. Plan on lightly sanding by hand when I'm finished...have done so on a portion of one wall as a test. Need to know what type of caulk you've used to make it air/bug tight, any sealant or coating, etc. I plan to leave some walls natural and paint others. Thanks! i've only seen walls polyurethaned which helped to seal. I guess you could caulk but to be honest, i'm not sure it would look good. Are you going to insulate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgallagher Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 A fifty dollar investment in an electronic hand sander would go a long way. Countersink all exposed nail heads. Then fill with a stainable wood filler that you can buy at any hardware store. Run the hand sander over the entire wall untill the holes and joints are relatively smooth with a 100 grit paper, then a 180 grit, and finally a 220 grit sandpaper. Then put your oil based stain of your choosing. Lightly sand with 220 grit again and touch up any spots. Then apply a couple of coats of oil based sealer. Light sanding between coats. If there are large gaps at the joints, fill them with a color matching caulk. Have Fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedobie Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 I do have a little electric hand sander and a punch to countersink the nails that cannot be removed without damaging the wood. Thanks for the input!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedobie Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 And I definitely plan on adding insulation, after discovering there is none between the shiplap and exterior siding. Learning a lot as a result of Hurricane Ike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jm1fd Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 A more aggressive sander such as a belt sander or an angle grinder would probably make things go faster, espescially when it comes to getting things more or less even. You can follow up with the hand sander for the final pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerlooper Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 The shiplap was never designed to be exposed so presumably you are looking for a rustic look. If you are not going to paint, then you will need to fill gaps with a closely matched caulk. DAP has dark brown available. The planks when applied were not kiln dried hence the 1/4"+ gaps.I have seen some owners remove the wall shiplap (use a cat's paw to get the nails out) and flip it over, packing the edges for a better seal. Start the reinstallation at the ceiling and work down. This will result in a gap at the lowest course to floor, however this can be filled with a ripped piece and/ or covered with baseboard.Removing and flipping may not be possible with the ceiling shiplap. Many bungalows were built with the ceiling planks laid over the top wall plates, hence it is locked into the structure. Be careful about blowing loose-fill insulation into the outside wall. If its balloon-framed, without blocking below, the insulation will just end up under the house. 5" or 6" random orbit sander is definitely the way to go. Use the vacuum attachment if possible. And wear dust and hearing protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedobie Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 I didn't realize the shiplap wasn't intended to be exposed, learn something new every day! Plan to keep a few walls "natural", paint others to give it a cottage look, and remove and replace with sheetrock a couple to use that material for areas with old termite damage. It's a real bugger removing planks, guess that's when a man would come in handy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott08 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Check out the interior of the Big Mamou restaurant on Studewood. The owner turned the shiplap over as suggested, left it exposed and stained in the main dining room. Looks good I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan the Man Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 I didn't realize the shiplap wasn't intended to be exposed, learn something new every day! Typically, stretched cotton cloth was tacked to the shiplap to hide the joints, then wallpaper was glued to the cloth. In the 1950s, many homeowners applied 1/4" sheetrock over the wallpaper. Typically, the wider the shiplap, the older the house...I wouldn't sand the surface or flip the boards over. I'd rather keep the character of the nail holes and imperfections, but that's just me. I'd just remove the nails and finish with linseed oil or orange shellac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
house567 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 You're a real trooper for attempting such a job...or like me, the first time owner of an olde house. In our case, I removed the qtr. in. sheetrock, tore off the old cloth, numbered the planks, removed each, added more electrical circuits and updated wiring (welcome to the world of knob & tube wiring), AND INSULATION, replaced the planks for hurricane strength I hope, new sheetrock, paint etc.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedobie Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 It was built in 1920 and had newer sheetrock in most rooms over ancient wallpaper that was over the cloth, which was nailed to the boards. That cloth has been a pain, because it's stuck behind nails that I can't get a prybar underneath to pop out. Blech. The sanding is mainly to remove the marks left behind from all of the mold. Definitely didn't plan on this undertaking, but Hurricane Ike had other plans. There has been a lot of very useful information provided that I'll put to use. Never would have thought about flipping the boards (although it seems like a no-brainer once you hear it!), but plan to save that for a future project. Now if I screw something up, there'll be a backup plan! If I can dodge the layoffs at work and figure out how to keep working on this place with yet another pay cut that I'm sure is coming, the old place may end up as my primary home one day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean3326 Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 So how did this turn out ? I've got a house that I believe it was built in 1896. I am about 3 hours north of Houston. Every wall and ceiling in the 2 story 2500 square foot has is shiplap. I'm about to start work on it and looking for any tips any one may have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Smith Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 Funny how I exposed walls in my 1880's house, and it had painted shiplap (not recent paint).. How I know? It had muslin and nails with wall paper over it. So, yes at some points shiplap was used as a exposed wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
METERMOM05 Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) We’re in Nederland,TX....and are redoing our home do to Harvey. We’re also keeping our Shiplap, we carefully removed to insulate and are reinstalling.! We have found several old window and door holes but fortunate enough to have enough to put up on the walls we wanna keep Shiplap! Would love some updated photos of completed work. Edited January 13, 2018 by METERMOM05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerlooper Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 I've seen shiplap at the Historic Houston warehouse for sale, if anyone has a need. http://www.historichouston.org/salvage-warehouse.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testing123 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 We're exposing shiplap in our 30's garage apartment. We aren't flipping or sanding anything. There are some knot holes that we will either patch with wood filler or like was done originally on some areas, nail a small piece of tin over them. So much character! White paint will cover it all...after many tedious hours of pulling off cheesecloth and burning the remaining strings from around the nail heads. I would go insane if I tried to make it perfect so intentional imperfections are my cup of tea. As far as cracks, in another project, we exposed a shiplap ceiling and some of the attic fluff (and 100-year-old filth) was sifting through. We wanted to keep the wood natural so we used a clear silicone to fill the cracks. Goes on white and dries clear. It had a sheen you could see at certain angles but a coat of satin poly over everything made it impercievable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testing123 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 On Friday, January 12, 2018 at 9:52 PM, METERMOM05 said: We’re in Nederland,TX....and are redoing our home do to Harvey. We’re also keeping our Shiplap, we carefully removed to insulate and are reinstalling.! We have found several old window and door holes but fortunate enough to have enough to put up on the walls we wanna keep Shiplap! Would love some updated photos of completed work. Jasper, Tx here! Looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendoragirl Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I'm in Orange, not far from Nederland! We are also doing a shiplap home, built in the 1880s but WOW I'm not so sure I want to take out all of the nails. 3000 sq ft of ceiling and walls, 12 ft tall... thousands of nails. Cant a good sanding take care enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrain Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 If any of you have some lessons learned to share regarding filling gaps, knotholes, painting, nails, I would be very grateful. I’m in the middle and kind of stuck on how to proceed. End goal is to paint it, and no it doesn’t have to be perfect! Just not horrible. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alona50 Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Anyone figured out how to seal the gaps? All of the walls in my home are shiplap. I am exposing two interior walls but there are lots of cracks and gaps. I filled all the cracks and nail holes spackling and sanded. I intended to use cauld but the tip is too large for most gaps. I need advice on what to use between each board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa1000 Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 I am exposing my shiplap on my walls and I am needing suggestions on filling the 1/4” gaps. I will be painting when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techbiker Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 Do not just blow insulation into the empty wall cavities if the house has no vapor barrier under the shiplap. Wind-driven rain will be absorbed into the loose insulation and rot will likely ensue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldhouseloverPNW Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Hi All! Working on our 1904 Millworker's Cottage up in the Pacific Northwest, and we also uncovered shiplap + tongue in groove wood plank walls and ceilings. We peeled off wallpaper last summer (was in very bad condition, otherwise we would have tried to salvage), then sanded (this took about 3 months). I filled cracks and nail holes with wood putty, then we painted the walls white and shellacked the ceilings. One year later, and we are looking to wallpaper back over the walls. Why?? As mentioned above, the wood was never really meant to be left exposed. While we love seeing the teeth marks from the saws, our walls are very uneven in gaps and cracks, and it really just looks sloppy and unintentional. Also, our house is much more drafty. The wallpaper acted as a layer of insulation. Without that barrier, air moves freely through the boards. Our house was built extremely well, and we'd like to honor it by restoring original features, such as wallpaper. Exposed shiplap is trendy right now, but as stewards of our home, we hope to do what is in the house's best interest in the long run. Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1898Texas Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 On 9/3/2018 at 9:18 AM, Alona50 said: Anyone figured out how to seal the gaps? All of the walls in my home are shiplap. I am exposing two interior walls but there are lots of cracks and gaps. I filled all the cracks and nail holes spackling and sanded. I intended to use caulk but the tip is too large for most gaps. I need advice on what to use between each board. Did you ever figure out how to fill the gaps? I also have a shiplap house (walls, ceilings) built in 1898 in the Palestine, Texas area. How did your project turn out? I do believe we will paint everything so that will lighten up the cabin feel. I am going to do ceiling treatments with bead board and tin so I don't have to do a ton of detail work above my head. we have one room that was completed prior to us buying the place. They used caulk to fill the space between boards (clear silicone) and sealed the shiplap with something shiny. It actually looks really good. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glutten4punishment Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 What is the best way to remove the wallpaper tacks? There are a gazillion of them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stratifiedsquamous Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 First mist the wood with water then use a tack puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiplap Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 Thank goodness I found this site. I'm redoing my bedroom. House built in the 30's -ish. . i readMy biggest issue is the little bit of cheesecloth that is still nailed down. I have a tack hammer but no puller. One of you mentioned burning the little suckers. I like that. As far as gaps go, I haven't even noticed. BUT, I live in Waco and ya know what that means? Joanna Gaines, the ship-lap queen is near by and one of my closest friends went to school with her and is going to ask her how she handles the netting. I'll ask her to ask about gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deedlc Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Can’t wait to hear what she says about filling the gaps! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdelk Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 (edited) I am so glad I found this thread. I have an 1880's home that has some shiplap but mostly poplar was ran horizontally. I started taking it off the walls running it through the planer and edger and putting it back on the walls but that is a tremendous amount of work and no matter how careful I am the boards are breaking. I mean they are over 100 years old. So, i decided to paint...well the tannin in the wood are still coming through and the latex primer and paint i am using is not working. 2 coats primer and 2 coats of pain later still seeing dark spots come through. Is there a primer/sealer for very old wood like this that I can paint the walls or do i just take out the gazillion tack nails from cheesecloth wallpaper and start sanding by hand....i am stuck Edited September 2, 2021 by sdelk Added picture of what the walls look like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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