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In Denver

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The new Millennium Bridge soars above a train track in the Denver neighborhood of LoDo.

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El Chapultepec is the most dependable place in town for a cold beer and cool jazz.

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October 22, 2004

36 HOURS

In Denver

By MINDY SINK

THE Mile High City is trying to re-invent itself, from cowtown to a destination city for sports fans, cultural connoisseurs and outdoor enthusiasts. The best place to see this transition is in downtown Denver and the LoDo neighborhood, or lower downtown, where historic buildings are finding new uses as lofts, hotels, restaurants and bookstores, and blending in with new lofts, apartments and offices in old rail yards and along the riverfront. The new Millennium Bridge, above, soars above a train track there. Fall is perhaps the perfect time to visit Denver, as the autumn colors have since peaked in the mountains and the resort towns are in their shoulder (a k a mud) season before the snow really accumulates.

Friday

6 p.m.

1) Cocktails in the Atrium

A visit to the historic Brown Palace Hotel (321 17th Street, 303-297-3111) is a must for every Denver visitor, and everyone from George Harrison to George W. Bush has stayed at the Brown Palace over the years. The nine-story triangular building takes up a city block and is an elegant mix of architectural styles. The centerpiece is the atrium lobby, where cocktails are served from 4 to 10 p.m. Thursday to Saturday and until 8 p.m. other days; in the evenings a pianist sets the mood. Try the signature Cascade Cocktail of Champagne, Chambord and Grand Marnier served in a martini glass with a sugar-cube fizz ($8.50).

8 p.m.

2) Where the Wild Things Are

Hop on Denver's newest mode of transportation

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