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Posts posted by cgallagher
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And second,...I want to do an addition but basically have no yard and don't want to spend that much money. I made an assumption that adding a second floor would require more money than just adding an addition and would require some foundation work. And this is potentially a really stupid question but if I were to add a second floor to only part of the house, would only that part of the house's foundation need to be reinforced? or is it more complicated than I am thinking?
That may not be true. If you have your original foundation design that you could submit to an engineer, you could probably get a quick answer. It also depends on the soil conditions around the home. Is the foundation currently in good condition?
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Just to keep everyone updated (if anyone's paying attention): Figured out why I was having such a problem. The structural engineer that did my city approved plans DID NOT DO WINDSTORM PLANS. The city just rubber-stamped the plans they were provided by the professional engineer. I am looking at having to retrofit my new house. In addition to straps and ties, there are interior walls, framing and plate anchors that have to be beefed up. Still figuring out how to handle the nail pattern problems without taking down the siding. Another big problem is the columns on my house are done and they need to be strapped to roof structure. I am just going to have to remediate, get past inspection, then submit claim for damages to engineer for malpractice. I'm more than a bit peeved, to say the least.
You'd have more luck suing HGTV for this one.
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Man, I have the same situation with my old home. Nice little detached garage built 50 years ago, but no rebar in the slab. The floor has a crack down the middle that I could stick my thumb in.
There are several good demo contractors that can handle this. Just let them know that you suspect there is asbestos siding, but you believe the lead paint is protecting them from exposure.
I'd budget about $3-4 per foot, depending on the slab thickness, ect.
PM me and I'll give you a guy that can do it cheaper than the bigger companies.
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There is usually a $50 - 75 delivery fee and the difference between a 20 and 30 yd is usually $20-30. So go ahead and get the 30 yd. It will come out to about $400.
These companies also have containers:
Gainsborough
Lone Star Disposal
Sprint Waste
Dennis Williams
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For old pine, there is a specialist in Texas City who will mill the new boards for you out of antique stock. His shop is called The Woodshop of Texas. His website:
www.antiquewoods.net
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I have also seen the some of junk that registered builders churn out and the mark-up they extract on supposedly "high-end" materials.
OK I'll give you that, but you just gave the city two reasons to make you take off the outside walls.
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More trouble is coming.
There are good reasons for these inspections. If your eye is untrained and your inspector is incompetent, I would seriously consider hiring an outside engineering company to inspect the rest of the way. Or a regstered builder for that matter.
Things will only get more expensive for you.
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You can always put the clips and straps on the inside. In fact people do it regulary because it eliminates doing two windstorm inpsections. At the Rafters and hips, you can use two H2.5 clips attached to the ridge and rafter - one on each side.
The problem you're not going to get around is the nailing pattern on the OSB or plywood sheathing that is now covered up. Maybe you have some pictures that you can show the inspector. Otherwise, you can write a letter to the city absolving them of liability of any future issues that may arise from the nailing pattern on the sheathing. Check with the inspector on this and if he doesn't know, check with his supervisor.
Did the inspector you hired check the nailing pattern on the sheathing? You may be able to submit a letter from him to the city to fix this problem. It will have to have an engineering stamp. Check with his company.
New's flash - You're not the first person to forget to get an inspection. Don't forget there is a brick tie, or stucco lath inspection. And don't forget the prefabbed fireplace inpspection. Also, check your permit. All of the required inspections are listed there.
Why are you blaming the framer? If you have the cornice delivered and you tell him to install it, how could it be his fault? Many framers don't install the clips and straps. This is often done by a separate crew. Was this included in his contract or bid? You did get a detailed quote in writing of course. If anything, this inspector you hired should shoulder the blame.
If the frame inspection is very, very tight and clean, you may help your cause. How is it possible that you could have done the nailing pattern incorrectly, when the quality of your work is so good?
And one last thing. Don't say that you forgot the inspection, you called it in right before you went out of town. The lady taking the call said that the computers were down and she would put it in the system later. You got back in a few days later, and didn't even realize the inspection wasn't done. You are explaining this part in a very irritated tone.
Good luck.
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The people who are issuing the new taxable values are not looking up the homestead status. The more protests they receive, the more they will have to look at how they assign values.
They also raised my taxable value by about 15%. I have filed a complaint based on homestead.
How will they manage all of these protests?
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Thanks for the pics. I went to school there through '92 and I remember those trees. However the I am very greatful that they've kept the ones on the east side of the property. Those are very nice live oaks and will be just as nice as the big one some day.
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Drove by Voss yesterday and it is now open. I bet things greatly improve.
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It's because Voss is closed at I10. Everyone is cutting through on Wirt/Chimeny Rock. It's causing a lot of problems. I had to change my route. Looks like at least another month or two of work left at that intersection.
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Yep, that wouldn't surprise me either. You still couldn't build on an easement. So that brings the additional questions: where could you move it? Would it take an additional land purchase? Would the new easement require replatting the neighborhood - which in turn requires a new survey? Many questions to answer here.
Although I'm sure people have done it before. But they were probably building a theme park or office building. And these costs are negligible.
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Contact Centerpoint Electricity. Builder department.
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I've heard there is a guy who collects and re-sells old brick somewhere off Washington. If anyone can find it, this guy can. I'll try to get the number and post it.
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So.... there's three toll booths between 610 and Hwy 6 and if they decide to go ahead with the elevated pricing, it will be $7.50 one way from Katy. That's $75 both ways in a 5 day work week. I remember when there were no toll roads in Houston. Now it seems like it's never going to end.
I like the idea of a Houston bypass lane for 18 wheelers and passing traffic. A lane that you could get on in Baytown and not get off until Katy with no other exits in between. This would divert all passing traffic off the main lanes and get most of the 18 wheelers out of the way. Imagine how nice that could be.
Why are all new roads being built toll roads? Fort Bend, West park, I10, some bridge on the east side. I feel like at some point we have to say enough is enough. We pay enough in taxes to drive our on our roads, and we have the right to get from A to B quickly without having to pay extra tolls.
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Isn't that Yao Ming's place? I know he is building in Rivercrest on Westhiemer. He will bring his parents. His restuarant is right across the street.
Close, that's Mike James' Place. He's on the Rockets, but doesn't play much. The compound in the back is a full basketball court, with a bar/game room right off the entry. It's pretty spectacular on the inside. Probably rival most small town high school courts.
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Never heard of them, check out the AIA website for local architects and interview at least three. Good Luck!
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Are you thinking that there is no beam under the windows and that the slope in the ceiling is sagging due to the weight of the upper floor ? Wow, that is something that definitely needs to be looked at. Do you have a copy of the engineering specs? I think you should definitely cut a hole and post a pic for us.
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Mmmmm.... That picture is missing something... let's see:
six dogs, a couple of engines, some plastic flamingos, and my Uncle Carl in a tank top with a beer helmet.
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It looks like there was a beam, probably steel, that was set too low and instead of raising the beam to the proper height, the framer ran the floor joists to the beam which caused the negative slope. It's important that you understand what's involved in doing this repair. If you raise the beam now, windows have to come out and be reset, all ceiling sheetrock, trim and paint have to be removed and replaced, tile replaced and reset, that beautiful iron railing removed and reinstalled, outdoor tile removed and replaced. Then the temporary supports need to be brought in before the beam can be raised. Also, any plumbing lines, electrical wires, or HVAC ducts have to be removed. Next the floor joists on both sides of the windowed wall are removed. After that, you have to cut out the bottom of the windowed wall. Now you can raise the beam to the proper height! Finally, you can start putting all this back together.
More than likely, you don't have the time and the builder can't afford to fix the framing. Structurally, you're OK. However, I would have him rip out the black and white tile and level this out. There will be some minor trim work and paint to do. Also, he needs to reset the exterior tile with a mud set and proper slope. A new balcony should never hold water.
Knowing that it rains every 3 days in Houston, a standing puddle would have been an obvious indication of a problem much earlier on. Did the builder ever walk the home? I think you're right to be suspicious.
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OK, you had me second guessing myself. So, I went back and checked the last invoice. Correction - $100 labor for sink installation.
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The granite guys should install the undermount sinks. It should be included in their original bid and is usually $50 each. The plumber is going to charge anywhere from 85-125 / hr. And it sounds like 2-3 hours of work. Make sure the holes are drilling in the granite before the plumbers get there. You'll have to make sure the granite guys do this before they leave (or before you pay them).
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Foam insulation is only useful if installed properly. All AC's must have fresh air intakes and they must be undersized so that they will run enough to cycle the humid air. The open cell foams are not vapor barriers. If you get a roof leak, the water will penetrate straight through.
Don't install foam on a remodel. A foam insulated home has to be designed properly from the beginning. IE: no soffit or roof venting, outdoor air intakes, and downsized AC's.
The cost savings over time can be very lucrative. Especially for larger homes.
Do people really believe Tom Tynan answers to God?
stucco problem crumbling off home.....Need advice
in Houston Construction, Home Repair, and Improvement
Posted
I disagree with all of you. Stucco does not mold, rot, or crumble by itself. The only way it would crumble, is if there was some sort of impact - usually by a grading tractor or trencher. It just needs to be repaired. Also stucco should not be installed unless the home has been "weighted down". Sheetrock needs to be stocked on the inside and the roof needs to be 80% installed. This will prevent most of the settling. You may see the occaisonal settling crack over time, but it is not common to see many.
Stucco is not cheap. Do you ever notice how the townhome builders will stucco the front of a house and apply siding to the sides and back? This is to save money. Stucco runs about $5/ wall foot, and in most cases it is the most expensive wall covering. Brick can be more expensive.
Personally I prefer masonry walls, I don't like how stucco stains so easily and requires yearly maintenance with a full powerwashing to stay clean.
If the stucco is crumbling by itself, then it was not installed properly, and you should be seriously concerned.