jmihl

What are the cost differences? I have never priced the insulated ones.

Are you planning on air conditioning the space?

Off the top of my head, i think i have 2 $1700 - $1800 bids; one for a R-10 and one for an R-15, then one for $2300 for the R-17.5. Home Depot came out to $1800 for an R-17 model, but i would rather go with an actual door company, although that's not a guarantee of better quality installation.

My garage is not air-conditioned, but is attached to the house. R-Value is one of the few characteristics that stood out to differentiate the multiple models/vendors.

Anyone have a recommendation for R-value on a new garage door? I'm trying to decide on how high to go; I've got options ranging from 12 to 15 to 17.8. Is the 17 overkill? I'm inclined to go as high as possible, but there is, of course, a cost difference.

Just for you:

flipper

Gah! Glass bowl sinks! Shards of glass straight into the brain!

On the other hand, a quick death means not having to look at those mirrors for very long.

Bowl sinks. For some reaseon, they make me feel like i'm going to accidentally smash my forehead on them.

I consider it a personal victory just to throw stuff away and get it to the curb. Asking me to sort it based on component materials and plastic type is unreasonable.

You don't have to sort anything. Just check the number on plastic bottles and don't put in the #6 (which ever ones that is). They don't take glass curbside.

Yesterday, I decided to buy a new weedeater. I decided to consider electric to match my electric edger. I found an 18 volt cordless from Black&Decker at Lowes (also at Home Depot). The 2 batteries that come with it match my cordless drill, sawsall and circular saw. It has a swivel head to do edging. Automatic line feed, quiet, lightweight, starts on demand, and decent torque.

I think i picked up the same model last summer. It's been great. As long as you don't espect is to cut through steel or mow your whole lawn with it. The charges last about enough to edge an average corner lot, plus flowerbeds. Plus not fiddling with the cord is so much easier. Well worth the $90 or so.

Sorry, you lost me at "scissor jack." That last option is most appropriate.

Several years prior. I'm assuming it was the foundation movement, because there is no other explanation.

Foundation damage (repaired last year) has caused several beams in my attic to snap and parts of the roof to sag a bit from beams that were slowly being pulled apart. Who do i get to replace the broken beams and realign the other parts? A framing contractor? Any recommendations? Nobody really stands out. Thanks!

My house (circa 1958) has the same paneling in the den and kitchen this one did. Is it considered a desirable, fashionably retro design element? Or just old? I can't stand mine and would love to replace it all with sheetrock that could be painted. I've seen nicer old wall paneling with thicker grooves that i could see people appreciating. Mine just looks like orangey pine board.

I'd hate to get rid of details that a future buyer might consider "classic" but i'd really prefer something like what flipper's done here. It looks really great.

Don't get me started on my aqua kitchen tile, either!

Oof. Yeah, we're probably looking at foundation and plumbing in one fell swoop. So has anybody gone through either set of repairs? Any thoughts on how it went? Thanks for the comments so far.

I am in the same situation as you, but I am just living with the crack in my foundation in the mean time. What kind of premium was it. Just so I can have an idea.

I don't have the estimates anymore, but it was something like 32 to 37 piers for $17K-20K, or $30K with the tunnel. Atlas and I think Du West came out.

have you gotten an actual engineer to determine your problem? most of hte companies don't use them. My parents had their slab evaluated and basically the guy said that their problem could be fixed but that it really wasn't something he'd spend a large amout of money on becasue it wasn't bad. he'd instead spend the money to get the old cast iron pipes undground replaced which will be a problem. their house is vintage 62

With the tunneling, they would look for, and fix (for extra) any leaks, which we probably have. A hydrological test would come with the package. I did think of having an engineer come out, but never did. A plumber awhile back did say many of the pipes around here (built in 1958) were not in good shape.

My house needs extensive foundation repair. I had several estimates done last year, and was wondering if anyone had insight on the pros and cons of the Cable Lock system vs. non-proprietary methods (i guess bell pier?). We have a slab foundation.

I was interested in Atlas because of the Cable Lock, and because they will tunnel underneath the house, sparing my (elderly) family any interior hassle. However, it's quite the premium, although that's mainly the tunneling part. Are some methods more reliable than others?