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Roof change inquiry for 1950 mid-century home


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My family has purchased an adorable vintage 1950 mid century home. Did not know what I had found until I started making plans to update it. Since then, I have discovered that I may have a little gem on my hands and wish to give greater thought and research to my "update". We are converting the garage to a master bedroom and master bath with laundry. That I have time to plan since we will not move into the home for a couple of months. However, the "tar and gravel" pitched roof is near to end of life and and insurance wants me to replace it. For this I seek advice (with in a day or two). A quote for replacing and matching the tar and gravel roof is near $20,000. Quotes for a shingled roof are $6000. Financially, I will need to go with the shingled roof unless there are sources out there that you guys know of. Would love to know about them. If I do go with a shingled roof, does color or type of shingle matter if I wish to preserve character? The house is white cut stone outside of town on a couple of acres.

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Shingles used on roofs below a certain pitch are prone to leaks. I suggest you research this before making the switch to shingles.

Good advice, Dan. I would never consider shingles on a roof with a less than 3:12 pitch (that is, the roof structrure slopes vertically three inches for every 12 inches of horizontal distance). I would think a 4:12 roof would be the minimum slope acceptable for a shingle roof.

There are other choices all of which are probably more expensive than shingles. A metal roof is one choice but it is probably not in keeping with the mid-century modern aesthetic of the house. There are membrane roofs such as themoplastic polyolefin (TPO), ethylene-propylene-diene monomer (EPDM - a syntheic rubber), and modified bitumen membranes. The latter look like composition asphalt roll roofing but are more sophisticated and durable.

Modified bitumen roofs usually comprise two or three layers of a modified asphalt impregnated sheet which is covered with a cap sheet of the same but the cap sheet has fine mineral granules imbedded in it. This is the contemporary version of the original roof which was possible coal tar or bitumen with gravel broadcast across it immediately after it was placed.

Any of the membrane roofs can be mechanically attached (fasteners with washers) or adhered. Adhering the membrane to the roof deck requires that the deck substrate be in good condition and securely fastened to the supporting structure beneath it. Please, please, PLEASE consult with your insurance agent before starting with the roof replacement. Depending on where you live TWIA will have guidelines that must be followed when replacing a roof in order to be eligible for insurance.

I advise talking with a roofing contractor that installs both shingle and membrane roofs. Any of the membrane roofs should last as long, if not longer, than a shingle roof in this climate if properly maintained. Standing water is the biggest enemy but since the roof described does have some slope that should not be a problem. A final caveat, though membrane roofing such as modified bitumen has been installed on smaller structures like houses, they are usually installed on commercial building with "low-slope," i.e. essentially flat roof structrures, and much greater square foot areas. This, as much as anything will drive the square-foot price. As stated earlier the initial price of a membrane roof will be higher than a shingle roof but it may be necessary given the low slope of the roof and perferable aesthetically. Good luck and please keep us updated on the progress of this project.

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Good advice, Dan. I would never consider shingles on a roof with a less than 3:12 pitch (that is, the roof structrure slopes vertically three inches for every 12 inches of horizontal distance). I would think a 4:12 roof would be the minimum slope acceptable for a shingle roof.

What would you recommed for a roof with a pitch in between 3:12 and 4:12?

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