Jump to content
HAIF - Houston's original social media

Recommended Posts

Looking for advice on restoring shiplap in an old bungalow. I've removed the sheetrock and "most" of the wallpaper and cheesecloth, still removing the nails used for putting up the wallpaper (lots of cursing), and need to finish removing the mold "dust" left behind from Ike.

Plan on lightly sanding by hand when I'm finished...have done so on a portion of one wall as a test. Need to know what type of caulk you've used to make it air/bug tight, any sealant or coating, etc. I plan to leave some walls natural and paint others.

Thanks!

unsure.gif

post-7013-12542873867214_thumb.jpg

post-7013-12542874412082_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking for advice on restoring shiplap in an old bungalow. I've removed the sheetrock and "most" of the wallpaper and cheesecloth, still removing the nails used for putting up the wallpaper (lots of cursing), and need to finish removing the mold "dust" left behind from Ike.

Plan on lightly sanding by hand when I'm finished...have done so on a portion of one wall as a test. Need to know what type of caulk you've used to make it air/bug tight, any sealant or coating, etc. I plan to leave some walls natural and paint others.

Thanks!

unsure.gif

i've only seen walls polyurethaned which helped to seal. I guess you could caulk but to be honest, i'm not sure it would look good. Are you going to insulate?

Link to post
Share on other sites

A fifty dollar investment in an electronic hand sander would go a long way. Countersink all exposed nail heads. Then fill with a stainable wood filler that you can buy at any hardware store. Run the hand sander over the entire wall untill the holes and joints are relatively smooth with a 100 grit paper, then a 180 grit, and finally a 220 grit sandpaper. Then put your oil based stain of your choosing. Lightly sand with 220 grit again and touch up any spots. Then apply a couple of coats of oil based sealer. Light sanding between coats. If there are large gaps at the joints, fill them with a color matching caulk.

Have Fun.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The shiplap was never designed to be exposed so presumably you are looking for a rustic look. If you are not going to paint, then you will need to fill gaps with a closely matched caulk. DAP has dark brown available. The planks when applied were not kiln dried hence the 1/4"+ gaps.

I have seen some owners remove the wall shiplap (use a cat's paw to get the nails out) and flip it over, packing the edges for a better seal. Start the reinstallation at the ceiling and work down. This will result in a gap at the lowest course to floor, however this can be filled with a ripped piece and/ or covered with baseboard.

Removing and flipping may not be possible with the ceiling shiplap. Many bungalows were built with the ceiling planks laid over the top wall plates, hence it is locked into the structure.

Be careful about blowing loose-fill insulation into the outside wall. If its balloon-framed, without blocking below, the insulation will just end up under the house.

5" or 6" random orbit sander is definitely the way to go. Use the vacuum attachment if possible. And wear dust and hearing protection.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't realize the shiplap wasn't intended to be exposed, learn something new every day! Plan to keep a few walls "natural", paint others to give it a cottage look, and remove and replace with sheetrock a couple to use that material for areas with old termite damage. It's a real bugger removing planks, guess that's when a man would come in handy!

tongue.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't realize the shiplap wasn't intended to be exposed, learn something new every day!

Typically, stretched cotton cloth was tacked to the shiplap to hide the joints, then wallpaper was glued to the cloth. In the 1950s, many homeowners applied 1/4" sheetrock over the wallpaper. Typically, the wider the shiplap, the older the house...

I wouldn't sand the surface or flip the boards over. I'd rather keep the character of the nail holes and imperfections, but that's just me. I'd just remove the nails and finish with linseed oil or orange shellac.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You're a real trooper for attempting such a job...or like me, the first time owner of an olde house. In our case, I removed the qtr. in. sheetrock, tore off the old cloth, numbered the planks, removed each, added more electrical circuits and updated wiring (welcome to the world of knob & tube wiring), AND INSULATION, replaced the planks for hurricane strength I hope, new sheetrock, paint etc.

Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

It was built in 1920 and had newer sheetrock in most rooms over ancient wallpaper that was over the cloth, which was nailed to the boards. That cloth has been a pain, because it's stuck behind nails that I can't get a prybar underneath to pop out. Blech. The sanding is mainly to remove the marks left behind from all of the mold.

Definitely didn't plan on this undertaking, but Hurricane Ike had other plans. angry.gif

There has been a lot of very useful information provided that I'll put to use. Never would have thought about flipping the boards (although it seems like a no-brainer once you hear it!), but plan to save that for a future project. Now if I screw something up, there'll be a backup plan!

If I can dodge the layoffs at work and figure out how to keep working on this place with yet another pay cut that I'm sure is coming, the old place may end up as my primary home one day!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 7 years later...

So how did this turn out ? I've got a house that I believe it was built in 1896. I am about 3 hours north of Houston. Every wall and ceiling in the 2 story 2500 square foot has is shiplap. I'm about to start work on it and looking for any tips any one may have. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
  • 7 months later...

We’re in Nederland,TX....and are redoing our home do to Harvey.  We’re also keeping our Shiplap, we carefully removed to insulate and are reinstalling.!  We have found several old window and door holes but fortunate enough to have enough to put up on the walls we wanna keep Shiplap!  Would love some updated photos of completed work.

44071B56-2A9C-4AB3-8AA6-60F91B20A6CC.jpeg

Edited by METERMOM05
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

We're exposing shiplap in our 30's garage apartment. We aren't flipping or sanding anything. There are some knot holes that we will either patch with wood filler or like was done originally on some areas, nail a small piece of tin over them. So much character! White paint will cover it all...after many tedious hours of pulling off cheesecloth and burning the remaining strings from around the nail heads. I would go insane if I tried to make it perfect so intentional imperfections are my cup of tea. 

As far as cracks, in another project, we exposed a shiplap ceiling and some of the attic fluff (and 100-year-old filth) was sifting through. We wanted to keep the wood natural so we used a clear silicone to fill the cracks. Goes on white and dries clear.  It had a sheen you could see at certain angles but a coat of satin poly over everything made it impercievable. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On Friday, January 12, 2018 at 9:52 PM, METERMOM05 said:

We’re in Nederland,TX....and are redoing our home do to Harvey.  We’re also keeping our Shiplap, we carefully removed to insulate and are reinstalling.!  We have found several old window and door holes but fortunate enough to have enough to put up on the walls we wanna keep Shiplap!  Would love some updated photos of completed work.

44071B56-2A9C-4AB3-8AA6-60F91B20A6CC.jpeg

Jasper, Tx here! Looks good!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

If any of you have some lessons learned to share regarding filling gaps, knotholes, painting, nails, I would be very grateful. I’m in the middle and kind of stuck on how to proceed. End goal is to paint it, and no it doesn’t have to be perfect! Just not horrible. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Anyone figured out how to seal the gaps? All of the walls in my home are shiplap. I am exposing two interior walls but there are lots of cracks and gaps. I filled all the cracks and nail holes spackling and sanded. I intended to use cauld but the tip is too large for most gaps. I need advice on what to use between each board.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi All! Working on our 1904 Millworker's Cottage up in the Pacific Northwest, and we also uncovered shiplap + tongue in groove wood plank walls and ceilings. We peeled off wallpaper last summer (was in very bad condition, otherwise we would have tried to salvage), then sanded (this took about 3 months). I filled cracks and nail holes with wood putty, then we painted the walls white and shellacked the ceilings. 

One year later, and we are looking to wallpaper back over the walls. Why?? As mentioned above, the wood was never really meant to be left exposed. While we love seeing the teeth marks from the saws, our walls are very uneven in gaps and cracks, and it really just looks sloppy and unintentional. Also, our house is much more drafty. The wallpaper acted as a layer of insulation. Without that barrier, air moves freely through the boards. Our house was built extremely well, and we'd like to honor it by restoring original features, such as wallpaper. Exposed shiplap is trendy right now, but as stewards of our home, we hope to do what is in the house's best interest in the long run. Best of luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
On 9/3/2018 at 9:18 AM, Alona50 said:

Anyone figured out how to seal the gaps? All of the walls in my home are shiplap. I am exposing two interior walls but there are lots of cracks and gaps. I filled all the cracks and nail holes spackling and sanded. I intended to use caulk but the tip is too large for most gaps. I need advice on what to use between each board.

Did you ever figure out how to fill the gaps? I also have a shiplap house (walls, ceilings) built in 1898 in the Palestine, Texas area. How did your project turn out? I do believe we will paint everything so that will lighten up the cabin feel. I am going to do ceiling treatments with bead board and tin so I don't have to do a ton of detail work above my head.  we have one room that was completed prior to us buying the place. They used caulk to fill the space between boards (clear silicone) and sealed the shiplap with something shiny. It actually looks really good. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

 

Bill

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Thank goodness I found this site. I'm redoing my bedroom. House built in the 30's -ish. . i readMy biggest issue is the little bit  of cheesecloth that is still nailed down. I have a tack hammer but no puller. One of you mentioned burning the little suckers. I like that. As far as gaps go, I haven't even noticed. BUT, I live in Waco and ya know what that means? Joanna Gaines, the ship-lap queen is near by and one of my closest friends went to school with her and is going to ask her how she handles the netting. I'll ask her to ask about gaps.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...