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Car Question


sevfiv

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Hi everyone,

I thought I'd ask here since a few folks here know a lot (well, a lot more than me) about cars and repair.

Here's the situation: I took my car in to a dealership to have a springy/grinding noise checked out - it is on the passenger/front side of the car and all signs pointed to some sort of suspension problem (mostly made the noise on dips in the road).

The guy at the dealership said they couldn't find anything wrong (I was told this was my first warning). I ended up driving the car with a tech, though, and he said the noise was probably the MacPherson strut.

They take it back in and I get a call saying they need to replace the strut. I say okay.

About $250 later I get the car back - same noise, plus a new one. I called this morning and asked why they replaced the strut and that it didn't fix what i brought it in for.

I was told it was filled with sand and dirt which causes corrosion. So basically, he said it was dirty (but not necessarily worn?). I repeated that it's like i never took the car in.

He said i could take it on a drive with a tech. I said I did, and he heard the noise.

Then he said I could bring it back in.

My question...do I have to keep throwing away $250 a pop while they guess at what's wrong with it?

To me, it didn't sound like it would be something so difficult to find and fix (but apparently it is...).

Argh. TIA.

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What kind of car? I know on the Probe we had that kind of noise on the rear passenger side. New suspension coil fixed it right up.

It's a Focus (the commuter car that is only driven about 5 miles per day, five days per week).

I have heard about Ford suspension issues (and previously experienced with an Explorer several years back), so I am not surprised.

I just want to know how I can get this fixed without getting screwed (which seems to be what's happening now).

I'll mention a suspension coil...

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All I can say is check up on the recalls. Take the tire off and look around. You'll be able to tell if the suspension coil is snapped/broken. If you can't see a visible problem - that is, just eying it - that means you need to get in there and start taking it apart. You can probably find the shop manual on eBay, or cruise the forums for people who have dug under their hood. Good luck with the dealer. If it's fairly new, do everything you can to tell them it's under warranty. Don't back down on that. I've been taken to the cleaners with Ford dealers before. (Like holes in less than 4 year old radiator hoses that weren't there before the trip to the dealer... Bastards.)

My suggestion is this: Aside from recalls, take it to the dealer to have them look it over and give you a written estimate. Take it to AAMCO, Midas, Firestone, etc. Get them to tell you what's wrong and hand you a written estimate. Last possible choice: find mom & pop shop recommended by a coworker or citysearch.com. I have yet to find a good one of these in Houston. Personal opinion: I hate the dealership. I go because I can hold crap against them (why didn't you notice my transmission was torn to bits when you took it apart to reseal it?!) with paperwork and written statements. Mom & Pop Shops are hit or miss just because you either find someone who knows your car or you don't and get taken to the cleaners. Firestone and them are there to get cars in and out and turn a buck or three thousand in the process.

Oct 03:

Ford Motor Company told dealers that they may need to replace the rear upper control arms on Ford Focus models. The models include: 2000 through 2004 Focus Sedan, Wagon, ZX3 and ZX5 series.

[...]

The Ford Motor Company parts service kit required for this replacement is 3S4Z-1A154-AA. Ford will perform the replacement of parts under provisions of the bumper to bumper warranty under TSB T31305.

This is considered a "silent recall" where upon Ford may NOT notify owners of this condition. Owners should contact Pat Hoye (313) 248-8336 at Ford World Headquarters or click here for a Ford executive assigned to your area.

Owners are advised to have their vehicles inspected before the warranty period expires.

Focus Fanatics

Recalls from Automotive.com

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The screws seem to be tightening...

It was clarified today that the shop foreman was the one who rode with me - not the technician. He told the technician what to replace. The technician apparently couldn't replicate the noise before or after the repair.

I was told that I can bring it in again and ride with the technician this time.

I am getting tired of this. Why couldn't they have done this to someone who at least has the money (and time) to burn on this stuff?

(like someone with something nicer than a Focus...haha)

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I am getting tired of this. Why couldn't they have done this to someone who at least has the money (and time) to burn on this stuff?

(like someone with something nicer than a Focus...haha)

It's their gig. I have an '04 PT Cruiser and a '96 Town & Country - go ahead, laugh... They're both paid off so nyah. Creaks and moans and all sorts of fun stuff. We took the van in because the transmission wasn't shifting properly (would randomly drop out of gear in drive off the line and on the freeway - before the rebuild) and they told us they couldn't replicate the problem. I think this must mean they don't bother to get into the vehicle and even try it out because they're too busy that day or whatever. Four months of being in and out of the shop, a complete reseal, and $1500 later, AAMCO told us the transmission was utterly gone. They weren't surprised that the DEALER didn't notice the 2" of metal shavings lining the pan, sad to say.

Good luck, sev... Seriously. I've been putting up with this shiat since I inherited my dad's old '89 Probe (which is why we bought the shop manual for it.) I can regale you with all kinds of horror stories from dealerships from here to Allentown, PA. Granted, a lot of them are because I'm female so obviously I don't know the difference between the master cylinder and the dipstick, but they're all the same and they keep you coming back because they throw you the old line that they "know your car better than anyone else." B.S.

</steps off soapbox> Sorry, this always gets me fired up.

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Yeah...I am trying to decide what to do. There is a finite amount of things this could be, but I don't want to pay $250 for each guess they take.

It's not a huge rush - I only drive this car a few miles per week to work and back - but yeah, it irks me.

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Yeah...I am trying to decide what to do. There is a finite amount of things this could be, but I don't want to pay $250 for each guess they take.

It's not a huge rush - I only drive this car a few miles per week to work and back - but yeah, it irks me.

Here's the deal, you got a receipt for a repair that was supposed to eliminate the "noise". Take them up on their offer, and have the SAME guy ride along with you who made the call. Make sure you find a dip around the area that will make the noise. Even have him drive over the dip that makes the car make the noise. When you have proven that the "noise" was indeed NOT repaired they SHOULD make the effort to fix the correct part either on them or finagle it under warranty. I fthey won;t make good on their end, PM me, and we will go with Plan B.

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Sevfiv, I know this sounds simplistic but try lubing the hood stops. They are all the rubber bumpers that isulate the hood from the fenders and front radiator support. They creak and sound just like suspension noise. Just dab a little grease on them and see what happens. And don't forget the hood latch if it's dry.

joe

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Thanks for the replies so far.

texianjoe: I will see if I can manage to do that. If it works, great (but I still got swiped $250 from the dealership).

vertigo: yeah, I have heard that more than once - this is my third Ford vehicle, and it has had the most problems (but not that much really). I had a truck once with no problems, an Explorer with only one electrical malfunction, and now this car which has been decent, except for the ignition failing a few months ago and now this.

I am not frustrated with the car - I am frustrated with the service.

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