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"Watch" me flip another house!


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Ok, the title is misleading. We are actually the GC on this project. We found this house and hooked some clients up with it. We helped them arrange the construction financing, and they will move in when we are done with it. It's getting the full monte. Long load bearing walls are coming down, a living space is being converted to a master bedroom, bath and closet and the kitchen and other baths are being gutted. Should be fun! Here are the "before" pics:

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The house already looks different than this morning when I took these pics. The installation of 48 foundation piers has commenced. Unless a mod objects, I will post periodic updates and pics in this thread. If I set up a separate blog I'll be unlikely to update it.

flipper

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Sorry folks, this is a custom project and that fireplace is right where either a closet or a bathtub is going. I won't let it hit the dumpster though!

memebag, yes it's got both real wood, and fake wood panelling. It's all going though. As a matter of fact, this whole wall is going: IMG_6976.jpg

flipper

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memebag, yes it's got both real wood, and fake wood panelling. It's all going though. As a matter of fact, this whole wall is going:

That makes my heart hurt. I bet those beautiful cabinets are going, too. You've got a hard job, Flipper.

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That makes my heart hurt. I bet those beautiful cabinets are going, too. You've got a hard job, Flipper.

You are correct. Shame those cabinets weren't built so that you can "remove" them from the wall to be re-installed elsewhere.

flipper

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If you're going to sell any of the old wood paneling let me know. I have to put up a wall in my sunroom and it would be nice to match the paneling in the rest of the room.

Is there any way to incorporate the fireplace in a covered patio area out back? It would look pretty cool as an outside firepit.

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If you're going to sell any of the old wood paneling let me know. I have to put up a wall in my sunroom and it would be nice to match the paneling in the rest of the room.

Is there any way to incorporate the fireplace in a covered patio area out back? It would look pretty cool as an outside firepit.

I'll see what I can do on the paneling. Demo is next week!

flipper

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Ok preservationists, get ready to cringe. Here is your 1 week update. Foundation and demo are done. Framing starts tommorow.

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2 surprises so far. This house has Urea-formaldehyde foam insulation inside the exterior walls. From what I've read, it is now Inert. That being said, we are taking it out in any exterior walls we open. More info on UFFI here: http://www.allaroundthehouse.com/re.let1-9.htm

The other surprise is how hard it is going to be to find the redwood siding we need to patch the exterior where we are removing a door and window unit.

Thanks for looking!

flipper

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The other surprise is how hard it is going to be to find the redwood siding we need to patch the exterior where we are removing a door and window unit.

Olshan's in the east end had shingles that match our asbestos ones, so perhaps they would have something that works for you.

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Framing will finish today. Rough Electric, Plumbing, and a few AC things next week.

This bathtub is right where the fireplace was:

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New master closet:

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Adding a door out to the backyard from what will be the client's home office:

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thanks for looking!

flipper

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Flipper,

Expected life of galvanized steel water supply piping is 40 years. Its 2009 now, are you sure you don't want to change it out when you have the chance?

Thanks

I'll ask the homeowner. Who should I say is picking up the cost? :)

flipper

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That UFFI was very effective at filling the cavities, with the exception of a few of the areas at the new tub. And with an R value of 5, it seems like a waste to tear it out.

It's pretty expensive to re pipe the whole house, especially in copper. I have galvanized in my old home. It's almost 55 years.

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That UFFI was very effective at filling the cavities, with the exception of a few of the areas at the new tub. And with an R value of 5, it seems like a waste to tear it out.

It's pretty expensive to re pipe the whole house, especially in copper. I have galvanized in my old home. It's almost 55 years.

We are only taking it out where we are opening walls. Really it just kinda falls out anyway. As you know, the city makes you put R13 in any exterior wall you open. I have 50+ year galvanized in my house too. I'm a gambler :)

We made more progress today. Patched up the siding where we removed doors and windows:

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We ended up using 8 1/4 smooth hardi siding. The framer got creative with the installation and it matches the original redwood nearly perfectly.

Put up a column on the front porch where there was NOTHING supporting the roof for who knows how long:

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Finished closing off an exterior door in what is now the master closet:

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Closed off a window in the master bath and framed out a new one. Put on the tub decking:

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Put an exterior door in what is going to be the office:

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Big honkin open area now:

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I always feel good at the end of framing because it smells like new lumber, and everything is clean. By this time next week I will be depressed because of the mess that the plumber an electrician make.

flipper

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Flipper you are doing nice work. Site looks professionally managed.

Well the owner should at least know that this is a good time to repipe and if they plan to stay there for many years, they can expect pinhole leaks and failures at joints. Of course since you are leaving ceiling sheetrock in place its not as cheap as repiping just a stud frame, but still. I bet two plumbers could do this place in PEX in two days.

That little back room has tricky low slope roof valleys....can you provide a picture from roof level?

Thanks

I'll ask the homeowner. Who should I say is picking up the cost? :)

flipper

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I'm the manager so thank you :)

The homeowner knows all their options as far as the water supply lines. If they want to repipe 100% of the lines it would probably be with cpvc due to budget.

I'll see if I can get you some more pictures.

flipper

Flipper you are doing nice work. Site looks professionally managed.

Well the owner should at least know that this is a good time to repipe and if they plan to stay there for many years, they can expect pinhole leaks and failures at joints. Of course since you are leaving ceiling sheetrock in place its not as cheap as repiping just a stud frame, but still. I bet two plumbers could do this place in PEX in two days.

That little back room has tricky low slope roof valleys....can you provide a picture from roof level?

Thanks

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I'm the manager so thank you :)

The homeowner knows all their options as far as the water supply lines. If they want to repipe 100% of the lines it would probably be with cpvc due to budget.

I'll see if I can get you some more pictures.

flipper

I love it when people make these kinds of trades: Let's spend $20,000, $30,000, $40,000 remodeling our home. But not the "extra" $500, in material, to put in copper pipe. Even though we have the prime opportunity, right now, while the sheetrock is off, to replace it.

I basically did the same thing to my house. And was also just going to leave the galvanized. When I looked at the marginal expense of replacing it with copper (which was very small), I did it. And I am glad I did. My house is 30 years old. The hot supply line was about 30% blocked, with crud. So I can see why people say you can only get about 50 years out of galvanized. I only did this where I had easy access. That way, in the future, I won't have to tear out the newly remodeled work to upgrade any plumbing/fix problems.

Anyway, this looks like excellent work. It must be nice having extra hands to help. It takes me forever.

EDIT: I wouldn't use PVC...

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True, the city requires R13 in exterior walls, but if this UFFI has an R value 5, then it has a total of 18.5 (3.5in * 5/in). The city sometimes requires a spec sheet for the newer foams or cellulose products if they are not familiar with them. But I can't imagine them requiring this for something that was first used in the 70's. The only reason I ask is that after reading the link you posted, the UFFI is a superior product to the R13 Fiberglass, and it seams like a waste to tear something like that out. Have you spoken with someone at the COH energy plan review department? I'm not criticizing, I'm just curious about this product.

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True, the city requires R13 in exterior walls, but if this UFFI has an R value 5, then it has a total of 18.5 (3.5in * 5/in). The city sometimes requires a spec sheet for the newer foams or cellulose products if they are not familiar with them. But I can't imagine them requiring this for something that was first used in the 70's. The only reason I ask is that after reading the link you posted, the UFFI is a superior product to the R13 Fiberglass, and it seams like a waste to tear something like that out. Have you spoken with someone at the COH energy plan review department? I'm not criticizing, I'm just curious about this product.

Ahhh... I think we are having a miscommunication. Here is what a wall with the UFFI looks like when you take the sheetrock off:

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As you can see, it just falls out.

These nice uniform walls are fiberlglass with a plastic backing:

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flipper

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